Sunday, 14 November 2010

The Ascent of Adam’s Peak

The day had started quietly enough with a drive along winding country roads with rough surfaces and fantastic views. We even had time to stop at a traditional kitchen with wood stoves and thatched roof for lunch (rice curry and strong coffee).
On reaching Adam’s Peak I booked into the Punsisi Rest guesthouse overlooking the deserted market place - as it was off season there was no-one around… The Hotel had 3 floors and I was on the top floor with a corner room and balcony, it was like having the royal suite with a four poster bed and electric shower :) Dinner was 6 large plates of curry with a bowl of rice… Needless to say that I gave up after four plates (I did not realise that you are supposed to just take a little from each plate - i ate the whole lot 0_0)…
Settling my bloated stomach in for the evening I enquired about whether any other tourists were staying at the guest house and was informed that I would be joined by 6 French visitors who were due to climb Adams Peak in the morning at 2AM!! Well I jumped at the chance of sharing a guide and when I met them asked whether I could join their team, they accepted and demonstrated excellent hospitality and friendship - so ’Merci’ to Pierre, Patricia and family for allowing me to join their group. So the scene was set of an assault on the summit at 2.15am…
At 2am my alarm interrupted a perfect nights sleep to spike me into action - the area is famous for having many LEECHES so it was on with the long trousers tucked into socks, long sleeved shirt and jacket… Then to complete the outfit and woolen hat to keep my head warm as we ascended the 2400m to the summit. Meeting with the French family we had a breakfast of Ginger biscuits and coffee - then we were off, torches in hand to begin the journey… Our guide informed us that he did this up to four times a week so we should be fine…
At the start of the trail there is a temple, Image of Buddha, a good fortune bell to ring (Which we all did in turn) and Japanese Buddhist Stupa, all very impressive but when you looked up at the mountain that awaited us we seemed very small. There were 5200 steps on the ascent (so before setting foot on one we received a blessing from a monk and had a band tied around our wrist for good fortune). The ascent began in the total darkness and seemed easy enough, I was lulled into a false sense of security and spent some time regarding the clear sky which allowed us to see stars that I cannot see from the cities in England - Polaris on the horizon, orions belt (and the rest of him!) as well as the Plough at a weird angle… The steps began to get steeper and closer together as we ascended. Legs began to tier and soon felt like lead - I needed to stop and fairly regularly - it was an effort to just stand up but the race was on to reach the summit…
Over freshly laid concrete steps, under fallen trees and through bushes on the path we pushed on and finally after 3 hours on the trail we arrived at the summit - to find - a large building and temple with a small tea hut 0_0 which then supplied us with tea as we recovered the ability to move… Standing watching to the East we watched the sun rise over the horizon spreading its orange glow across the mountainsides around us and reflecting off the lakes, a beautiful site - but not as awe inspiring as the site that met us on the other side of Adams Peak -it was a perfect pyramidal shadow cast by the mountain and it seemed to hang in mid air - it was AMAZING and even came out on the photos!! We watched as the shadow moved towards the mountain and then lit incense at the summit in the temple and rang the bell outside. The French family shared its chocolate and we were soon ready for the descent… all 5200 steps of it!! My knees have never felt so tired, they were shaking by the time I got half way down and at the bottom I could hardly walk straight - this climb is not for the faint hearted…
On our return to the hotel it was a celebration with a hot shower (as my shirt was so soaked in sweat that I could have rung it out, not a dry spot on it!!) and Huge breakfast.

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