Friday 15 October 2010
Wet day in Darjeeling 0_0
It is raining constantly for the first time since arriving in India - How like Britain Darjeeling is today :)
On a wet day there is little to do but find a comfortable spot to settle down and read. Glenerys is the perfect spot with Internet access for 30r an hour and fabulous cakes, tea and wicker chairs…
Traffic in Darjeeling can get very congested as there is only one major route through the city as you can imagine this causes massive tale backs in both directions!! Of cause nearly all of the vehicles on the road are land rovers and jeeps packed to the brim with goods and people - in fact many of them have people sitting on the roof or hanging off the back with packs strapped all around or under them 0_0
At over 2000m altitude the pressure in Darjeeling is very different to sea level - this is easily demonstrated through looking at the packet of crisps transported from Kolkata… At see level it is flat but here the packet looks fit to burst as the pressure is so much lower here!! Opening a packet is an interesting affair - better to tear than pop… As for descending - as i came down on the last day of the trek from 4000m to 2000m the water bottle i was carrying was crushed by the pressure!!
Finally after 6 weeks of travelling around India my boots are starting to show signs of wear (wierdly especially on the toes!!) but the Merrell’s have been exceptionally comfortable and met every challenge that they have faced. One of my best buys, other must have travel accessories include; Arabic style scarf, which is a fantastic multipurpose tool that can be bought from Cambridge market for £3 :) and a pair of zip pocket Crag Hopper trousers, which remove the need for a money belt which are always uncomfortable and sweaty!!
Hoping for a brighter day tomorrow as the clouds are obscuring the views today...
On a wet day there is little to do but find a comfortable spot to settle down and read. Glenerys is the perfect spot with Internet access for 30r an hour and fabulous cakes, tea and wicker chairs…
Traffic in Darjeeling can get very congested as there is only one major route through the city as you can imagine this causes massive tale backs in both directions!! Of cause nearly all of the vehicles on the road are land rovers and jeeps packed to the brim with goods and people - in fact many of them have people sitting on the roof or hanging off the back with packs strapped all around or under them 0_0
At over 2000m altitude the pressure in Darjeeling is very different to sea level - this is easily demonstrated through looking at the packet of crisps transported from Kolkata… At see level it is flat but here the packet looks fit to burst as the pressure is so much lower here!! Opening a packet is an interesting affair - better to tear than pop… As for descending - as i came down on the last day of the trek from 4000m to 2000m the water bottle i was carrying was crushed by the pressure!!
Finally after 6 weeks of travelling around India my boots are starting to show signs of wear (wierdly especially on the toes!!) but the Merrell’s have been exceptionally comfortable and met every challenge that they have faced. One of my best buys, other must have travel accessories include; Arabic style scarf, which is a fantastic multipurpose tool that can be bought from Cambridge market for £3 :) and a pair of zip pocket Crag Hopper trousers, which remove the need for a money belt which are always uncomfortable and sweaty!!
Hoping for a brighter day tomorrow as the clouds are obscuring the views today...
Resting my legs in darjssling :)
After the trek my legs have stiffened to the point of being unable to cope with stairs properly 0_0
Have spent two days resting in Darjeeling and completing the usual tourist activities including post cards and gently exploring the city. Have found that it is a network of heavily congested jeep roads and stairways - the narrow passages intersecting the roads are universally used for water pipes that lay above ground to allow easy repairs (several of which were leaking). Porters regularly travel along the roads as footpaths are unheard of here! Each porter carries loads that we in the west would find strenuous, but I have seen them carry 2 Huge gas bottles supported on their head straps and even a fully furnished sofa while whistling to warn people ahead of them that they were coming.
Walking around Darjeeling you will see streets, which are dedicated to certain shops/services - for example some are almost exclusively butchers where you find all kinds of meat for sale dangling from hooks and waiting on blocks ready for cuts to be selected by passing customers, while others are dedicated to fresh market goods including purple, yes PURPLE carrots J or woollen goods, which are invariably in the form of shawls and jumpers (I loved the fact that some of the market stall owners sat cross legged on their stalls knitting their wears while you passed waiting for customers to show an interest)… After all it is cold up on the mountains in comparison to the rest of India.
Stomach a little sensitive at the moment but have found that Glanery’s has a cure in the form of Macaroni cheese :)
Eating places in Darjeeling that I would recommend include; Glenery’s for the superb vegetable sizzler (which makes you look like a Genie in a lamp as the steam from the sizzler obscures you from view!!) and simple pasta dishes, Windimere for its high tea (although pricy for what you get in my humble opinion it tops the other high teas available in the area as you get to eat it in the lounge with a warm coal fire and incredibly comfortable seats while the maids wear the traditional English pinnie!), Shangrila has good curries and the Park has good Thai food.
Finally you can watch a Bollywood film at the INOX cinema for 100r (£1.40), I saw ‘Robot’, which I can only state is an incredible ride through a visual cacophony of scenes including sincrininsed robot dance routines and dream sequences at sites such as Macho Pitcho - A superb experience that is 3 hours long including intermission and has optional popcorn ;)
While resting in my hotel room I witnessed a parade along the main street including ladies dressed in Red finery mounted on horses accompanied by a plethora of attendants and banner wielding groups all colour co-ordinated. A fantastic agglomeration of sites and sounds.
At night the one drawback of the city is the noise of stray dogs barking and yelping as they fight for the territory or tit bits in the night while during the day most of the dogs literally lay flat out on the street asleep or wander around begging food from stalls or chasing monkeys who let out a weird roaring noises.
Have spent two days resting in Darjeeling and completing the usual tourist activities including post cards and gently exploring the city. Have found that it is a network of heavily congested jeep roads and stairways - the narrow passages intersecting the roads are universally used for water pipes that lay above ground to allow easy repairs (several of which were leaking). Porters regularly travel along the roads as footpaths are unheard of here! Each porter carries loads that we in the west would find strenuous, but I have seen them carry 2 Huge gas bottles supported on their head straps and even a fully furnished sofa while whistling to warn people ahead of them that they were coming.
Walking around Darjeeling you will see streets, which are dedicated to certain shops/services - for example some are almost exclusively butchers where you find all kinds of meat for sale dangling from hooks and waiting on blocks ready for cuts to be selected by passing customers, while others are dedicated to fresh market goods including purple, yes PURPLE carrots J or woollen goods, which are invariably in the form of shawls and jumpers (I loved the fact that some of the market stall owners sat cross legged on their stalls knitting their wears while you passed waiting for customers to show an interest)… After all it is cold up on the mountains in comparison to the rest of India.
Stomach a little sensitive at the moment but have found that Glanery’s has a cure in the form of Macaroni cheese :)
Eating places in Darjeeling that I would recommend include; Glenery’s for the superb vegetable sizzler (which makes you look like a Genie in a lamp as the steam from the sizzler obscures you from view!!) and simple pasta dishes, Windimere for its high tea (although pricy for what you get in my humble opinion it tops the other high teas available in the area as you get to eat it in the lounge with a warm coal fire and incredibly comfortable seats while the maids wear the traditional English pinnie!), Shangrila has good curries and the Park has good Thai food.
Finally you can watch a Bollywood film at the INOX cinema for 100r (£1.40), I saw ‘Robot’, which I can only state is an incredible ride through a visual cacophony of scenes including sincrininsed robot dance routines and dream sequences at sites such as Macho Pitcho - A superb experience that is 3 hours long including intermission and has optional popcorn ;)
While resting in my hotel room I witnessed a parade along the main street including ladies dressed in Red finery mounted on horses accompanied by a plethora of attendants and banner wielding groups all colour co-ordinated. A fantastic agglomeration of sites and sounds.
At night the one drawback of the city is the noise of stray dogs barking and yelping as they fight for the territory or tit bits in the night while during the day most of the dogs literally lay flat out on the street asleep or wander around begging food from stalls or chasing monkeys who let out a weird roaring noises.
Thursday 14 October 2010
Trekking the Singalila ridge into Nepal
After a brief meeting with Ian and Sarah we arranged a 4 day trek along the Singalila Ridge. This meant an early start to get the jeep to the starting point at Mana Bhanjang.
We met our guide, cook and porter at the start of the trip and prepared for the off with tea and biscuits and passport checks. We began the trek with a sense of the unknown as we were about to complete a rapid ascent from 2000m to 3000m over the course of the day - this was in the form of a steep trek through inspiring landscapes - We trekked through woodland along steep stone covered tracks and Jeep roads, which were soo steep that it was a wonder that the landrovers we saw did not topple over backwards! And these are wagons loaded to the brim with people and bags!! As we walked there were several moments that caught the eye; the Narnia moment with ‘Lion witch and the wardrobe’ style lamp in the middle of nowhere, the shear drops to the side of the jeep tracks, the large scars on the hillsides caused by landslides, the magical little shacks where you received a warm welcome, noodle soup and tea :), the stunning range of flora and rolling clouds, which enveloped us at times as we ascended.
By the end of the first day we had managed 14km and 1km straight up!! It was a good work out for the heart and lungs as well as the legs… The first stop was at a large hut (Hotel), which supplied us with dinner and as much tea as we could drink. There was also the opportunity to buy a wheat based drink which came in massive tankards with straws which you topped up with hot water to refresh the alcohol. I was not brave enough to try but others gave it a go and exclaimed that it was not bad but a little like vinegar… There was a large number of guests at the lodge and so the family gave me their family room for my bed!! The welcome was heart warming and I slept like a log till 5am when we all rose to get our first view of ‘Khangchendzonga’ the third highest peak in the world, and it was stunning to behold as the sun rose, glinting off its glacier encrusted flanks as we stood in the cold morning air with mist eminating from our mouths.
Day 2 was another ridge trek, this time 17km, on a 'mild' ascent where we were due to stay at ‘Black lake’ within Nepal, it was a mildly easier trek and continued to follow jeep tracks but we did need to stop at army check posts to complete paperwork for entering Nepal. Views were stunning when the clouds cleared but we spent most of the day climbing through them. Finally we stopped at a small village with two lodges but they were full so we ended up staying at a smaller family run home where we received another warm welcome and a meal of cooked and spiced vegetables, noodle soup, boiled potatoes, boiled eggs and bread, all locally produced (I wolfed it all down as you build up an immense hunger after a days hike). It was like a kings feast after the two days of hiking, an all you can eat affair until we were full :)
Slept once again like a log even on the rock hard bed and woke to breakfast being prepared over the open wood fire - These are ingenious devises designed for the area - At around 3000m fuel supply routes are connected by either occasional jeep or horses - therefore wood is an easily accessible resource, which is stored in long strips, these strips are then fed into a clay oven with two openenings at the top to place pans onto - as the wood burns it can be moved further into the oven while its embers are removed to act as heating in the living space… This works very well when combined with a paint tin as a small heat chimney, placed over the centre of the hot coals, heat rises above the centre and air is drawn into the bottom causing more heat to be produced, simple but effective. However, if you spend a lot of time by the fire your snot becomes black ;) so i can see why it would not be healthy in the long run...
Day 3 continued deeper into Nepal with a rapid ascent of just 7km, however, this was on a very steep slope up to Sandyacht a peak at almost 4000m (That’s 4km up or 12,000ft!!), it was a little harder work with the air thinner and slop steeper - Stops were regular to allow for chocolate to be used for refuelling :) Our guide carried a limitless supply of both chocolate and water and I would have struggled to make the trip if I was carrying the pack that he had… He regularly stated ‘Slowly, slowly’ as we ascended encouraging as steady pace, which we could maintain throughout the ascent. The views continued to be obscured by cloud and this meant that we only had a view of the surrounding ridges and nearby surroundings - these however, were quite interesting with several scars from landslides and measures used to support the roads such as concrete stream channels and afforestation. Lodging was at the hotel on the peak which was a three storey building made completely from wood with simple rooms and on suite toilets (Small squat affairs with bucket and scope but no light and clearly designed for someone much shorter than my 6'2" frame - a bit of a challenge to use at first in torchlight but you get used to them!) After another great evening meal we were all so tired that we went to bed early in preparation for a 5am start.
Day 4 began with a 5am wake up call to go and see the view - It was spectacular (and i must emphasise the SPECTACULAR part as my camera died and the images do not do it justice - the human eye is the best tool so if you want to get what i mean here you will need to come yourself), it was one of those special moments that you will treasure for the rest of your life - Standing on the summit we could see the surrounding ridges and peaks of ‘Khangchendzonga’ clearly in the frosty morning air. The sun came up and glinted from the many facets of the mountain range, reflecting in golden glows from the glaciers. An amazing sight (Camera battery died here so no more pictures!!). I can only say that as the morning went on we did not move, just stood mesmerised by the site of the mountain range appearing from the cloud as it was burnt off by the suns energy - Tea and biscuits were provided by our guide allowing us to stay out in the cold morning air for two hours admiring the view until Mount Everest appeared on the horizon flanked by Lhotse and Makalu. Everest is the middle mountain of the three but appears smaller due to the distance and curvature of the earth, but its peak is unmistakable with a pyramid shape. It is ‘a moment’ which I will treasure for a lifetime and something that I will come back to see again (hopefully from a bit nearer).
The final day also meant a 21km trek descending 2km 0_0, this would be the hardest day as I find walking downhill harder on my knees and calves… The descent was incredible with excellent views of the Himalayan range around us above the cloud layer. During the descent we came across large burnt out areas of forest, which had been replanted, but the skeletons of the former giants remained standing guardians of their replanted kin. The fires may have been caused by lightning but the effect was to make the slopes less stable and this led to several methods being used to protect settlements below from possible landslides - these included: replanting trees, putting in place concrete channels to allow rainwater to be drained quickly and stabilizing wooden barriers. This was continued on the pathways with steps placed in the form of wooden planks and stones to reduce erosion.
The descent was rapid and ended at a lunch break stop for soup and momo’s, which were veg filled bite sized snacks which go well with chilli sauce. We had made it half way!! The remainder of the day was a mix of ascent and descent through river valleys climbing over the spurs. We walked through a wonderful landscape straight out of a fairytale book, to start with we walked amongst forest then through stands of thickly set bamboo forming a wonderful and enchanting canopy all around us then into an amazing forest, which appeared tropical in nature at 2000m altitude, there were moss covered trunks, epiphytes and bubbling streams. The sounds of insects and birds surrounded us every step of the way.
The path we followed was a narrow track, which rose and fell across the staggering landscape, ocassionally it was covered in concrete steps!!! Placed there by workers who would have had to carry the concrete there by hand… but for the most part the track was covered with a layer of stones to prevent erosion. As we neared our final destination we began to pass small isolated homes with terraced fields, where we ended up walking along narrow earthen tracks parallel to maize fields. All the people would call out Nameste as we passed. The final few km’s were an eye opener as families and students from local schools made their way home along this at time precarious track - I realised that these young people (some at primary level) were left to wander home along these tracks for, in some cases, several km’s. No school buses hear!!
At journeys end it was time for more noodle soup followed by a 4 hour jeep transit back to Darjeeling. This in itself was amazing, in the dark evening the jeep had to descend and ascend regularly across the landscape crossing military check points and fording streams - at times the road had been washed out and had been replaced by a flattened earthen track, which of course had been heavily shaped by vehicles - the roads were in poor condition in Nepal and pot holes seemed to outnumber areas of tarmac so speed was restricted to 10mph for much of the journey. Nearing Darjeeling the roads improved and speed increased, but the ride was like the thrill of a roller coaster, knowing that to one side of you was a terminal drop. The stars were shining in the darkness but at times in the valley the beautiful lights of the settlements above use looked like stars - the whole landscape is magical at night with lights strung out across the valleys.
I would strongly urge anyone seeking an adventurous holiday to seek out both the Indian and Nepalese Himalayas as they are a wonder of nature, which I believe, will remain with you long after you return home.
We met our guide, cook and porter at the start of the trip and prepared for the off with tea and biscuits and passport checks. We began the trek with a sense of the unknown as we were about to complete a rapid ascent from 2000m to 3000m over the course of the day - this was in the form of a steep trek through inspiring landscapes - We trekked through woodland along steep stone covered tracks and Jeep roads, which were soo steep that it was a wonder that the landrovers we saw did not topple over backwards! And these are wagons loaded to the brim with people and bags!! As we walked there were several moments that caught the eye; the Narnia moment with ‘Lion witch and the wardrobe’ style lamp in the middle of nowhere, the shear drops to the side of the jeep tracks, the large scars on the hillsides caused by landslides, the magical little shacks where you received a warm welcome, noodle soup and tea :), the stunning range of flora and rolling clouds, which enveloped us at times as we ascended.
By the end of the first day we had managed 14km and 1km straight up!! It was a good work out for the heart and lungs as well as the legs… The first stop was at a large hut (Hotel), which supplied us with dinner and as much tea as we could drink. There was also the opportunity to buy a wheat based drink which came in massive tankards with straws which you topped up with hot water to refresh the alcohol. I was not brave enough to try but others gave it a go and exclaimed that it was not bad but a little like vinegar… There was a large number of guests at the lodge and so the family gave me their family room for my bed!! The welcome was heart warming and I slept like a log till 5am when we all rose to get our first view of ‘Khangchendzonga’ the third highest peak in the world, and it was stunning to behold as the sun rose, glinting off its glacier encrusted flanks as we stood in the cold morning air with mist eminating from our mouths.
Day 2 was another ridge trek, this time 17km, on a 'mild' ascent where we were due to stay at ‘Black lake’ within Nepal, it was a mildly easier trek and continued to follow jeep tracks but we did need to stop at army check posts to complete paperwork for entering Nepal. Views were stunning when the clouds cleared but we spent most of the day climbing through them. Finally we stopped at a small village with two lodges but they were full so we ended up staying at a smaller family run home where we received another warm welcome and a meal of cooked and spiced vegetables, noodle soup, boiled potatoes, boiled eggs and bread, all locally produced (I wolfed it all down as you build up an immense hunger after a days hike). It was like a kings feast after the two days of hiking, an all you can eat affair until we were full :)
Slept once again like a log even on the rock hard bed and woke to breakfast being prepared over the open wood fire - These are ingenious devises designed for the area - At around 3000m fuel supply routes are connected by either occasional jeep or horses - therefore wood is an easily accessible resource, which is stored in long strips, these strips are then fed into a clay oven with two openenings at the top to place pans onto - as the wood burns it can be moved further into the oven while its embers are removed to act as heating in the living space… This works very well when combined with a paint tin as a small heat chimney, placed over the centre of the hot coals, heat rises above the centre and air is drawn into the bottom causing more heat to be produced, simple but effective. However, if you spend a lot of time by the fire your snot becomes black ;) so i can see why it would not be healthy in the long run...
Day 3 continued deeper into Nepal with a rapid ascent of just 7km, however, this was on a very steep slope up to Sandyacht a peak at almost 4000m (That’s 4km up or 12,000ft!!), it was a little harder work with the air thinner and slop steeper - Stops were regular to allow for chocolate to be used for refuelling :) Our guide carried a limitless supply of both chocolate and water and I would have struggled to make the trip if I was carrying the pack that he had… He regularly stated ‘Slowly, slowly’ as we ascended encouraging as steady pace, which we could maintain throughout the ascent. The views continued to be obscured by cloud and this meant that we only had a view of the surrounding ridges and nearby surroundings - these however, were quite interesting with several scars from landslides and measures used to support the roads such as concrete stream channels and afforestation. Lodging was at the hotel on the peak which was a three storey building made completely from wood with simple rooms and on suite toilets (Small squat affairs with bucket and scope but no light and clearly designed for someone much shorter than my 6'2" frame - a bit of a challenge to use at first in torchlight but you get used to them!) After another great evening meal we were all so tired that we went to bed early in preparation for a 5am start.
Day 4 began with a 5am wake up call to go and see the view - It was spectacular (and i must emphasise the SPECTACULAR part as my camera died and the images do not do it justice - the human eye is the best tool so if you want to get what i mean here you will need to come yourself), it was one of those special moments that you will treasure for the rest of your life - Standing on the summit we could see the surrounding ridges and peaks of ‘Khangchendzonga’ clearly in the frosty morning air. The sun came up and glinted from the many facets of the mountain range, reflecting in golden glows from the glaciers. An amazing sight (Camera battery died here so no more pictures!!). I can only say that as the morning went on we did not move, just stood mesmerised by the site of the mountain range appearing from the cloud as it was burnt off by the suns energy - Tea and biscuits were provided by our guide allowing us to stay out in the cold morning air for two hours admiring the view until Mount Everest appeared on the horizon flanked by Lhotse and Makalu. Everest is the middle mountain of the three but appears smaller due to the distance and curvature of the earth, but its peak is unmistakable with a pyramid shape. It is ‘a moment’ which I will treasure for a lifetime and something that I will come back to see again (hopefully from a bit nearer).
The final day also meant a 21km trek descending 2km 0_0, this would be the hardest day as I find walking downhill harder on my knees and calves… The descent was incredible with excellent views of the Himalayan range around us above the cloud layer. During the descent we came across large burnt out areas of forest, which had been replanted, but the skeletons of the former giants remained standing guardians of their replanted kin. The fires may have been caused by lightning but the effect was to make the slopes less stable and this led to several methods being used to protect settlements below from possible landslides - these included: replanting trees, putting in place concrete channels to allow rainwater to be drained quickly and stabilizing wooden barriers. This was continued on the pathways with steps placed in the form of wooden planks and stones to reduce erosion.
The descent was rapid and ended at a lunch break stop for soup and momo’s, which were veg filled bite sized snacks which go well with chilli sauce. We had made it half way!! The remainder of the day was a mix of ascent and descent through river valleys climbing over the spurs. We walked through a wonderful landscape straight out of a fairytale book, to start with we walked amongst forest then through stands of thickly set bamboo forming a wonderful and enchanting canopy all around us then into an amazing forest, which appeared tropical in nature at 2000m altitude, there were moss covered trunks, epiphytes and bubbling streams. The sounds of insects and birds surrounded us every step of the way.
The path we followed was a narrow track, which rose and fell across the staggering landscape, ocassionally it was covered in concrete steps!!! Placed there by workers who would have had to carry the concrete there by hand… but for the most part the track was covered with a layer of stones to prevent erosion. As we neared our final destination we began to pass small isolated homes with terraced fields, where we ended up walking along narrow earthen tracks parallel to maize fields. All the people would call out Nameste as we passed. The final few km’s were an eye opener as families and students from local schools made their way home along this at time precarious track - I realised that these young people (some at primary level) were left to wander home along these tracks for, in some cases, several km’s. No school buses hear!!
At journeys end it was time for more noodle soup followed by a 4 hour jeep transit back to Darjeeling. This in itself was amazing, in the dark evening the jeep had to descend and ascend regularly across the landscape crossing military check points and fording streams - at times the road had been washed out and had been replaced by a flattened earthen track, which of course had been heavily shaped by vehicles - the roads were in poor condition in Nepal and pot holes seemed to outnumber areas of tarmac so speed was restricted to 10mph for much of the journey. Nearing Darjeeling the roads improved and speed increased, but the ride was like the thrill of a roller coaster, knowing that to one side of you was a terminal drop. The stars were shining in the darkness but at times in the valley the beautiful lights of the settlements above use looked like stars - the whole landscape is magical at night with lights strung out across the valleys.
I would strongly urge anyone seeking an adventurous holiday to seek out both the Indian and Nepalese Himalayas as they are a wonder of nature, which I believe, will remain with you long after you return home.
Zoo and Himlayan Mountain Institute
James the Wolves are for you :) They were very laid back on the day and just opened one eye as i took the photo...
First two days in Darjeeling
Two days into my stay in Darjeeling and the clouds have not yet broken - The air is full of moisture and the clouds steam over the ridges as I walk through the town. The market place is shrouded in mystery with a cloak of fog/cloud rolling around the streets revealing only slowly each of the lights of stores and restaurants as I pass. It is a magical place where people politely nod and call ‘Nameste’ as they pass.
Darjeeling has a wide range of attractions to keep visitors occupied for days. My first visit was to the zoological gardens and Himalayan Mountain Institute museum (100r entry). The zoo is a well designed and spacious environment for most of the animals which are cared for by attentive staff in purpose built enclosures with informative and clearly laid out on small notice boards. I spent at least an hour walking around and was taken by the ‘Red pandas’ who were active and inquisitive strolling over their large purpose built structures, I was captivated by the way in which one of the pair came over to the edge of the enclosure as if to enquire - Why are you so interested in me? Is this close enough for a good shot? And it was.
The Himalayan Mountain Institute Museum is on the same site as the zoo and has some memorable nostalgia from our mountaineering exploits. The Everest exhibit is quite moving with 3D models of the Himalayan range and another of the tallest mountains of the world. There was also an extensive range of climbing equipment from a range of successful attempts on the summit including a pair of tiny boots worn by a climber who had lost his toes to frostbite. Spending an hour here is easy with every exhibit providing an incite into how mountaineering has changed over time - it is hard to comprehend how these brave and adventurous men ever managed to succeed in reaching the peak of Everest with the equipment available in 1953... Simply amazing.
Have met several wonderful people during my stay here including those on gap years from work, holidays and working visits. I would like to take the time to mention Iain and Sarah who I met in Kurseong and who were keen to complete some hiking around Darjeeling - They are a fantastic couple and I wish them every happiness in their future as Ian proposed during their stay here and Sarah accepted :)
Darjeeling has a wide range of attractions to keep visitors occupied for days. My first visit was to the zoological gardens and Himalayan Mountain Institute museum (100r entry). The zoo is a well designed and spacious environment for most of the animals which are cared for by attentive staff in purpose built enclosures with informative and clearly laid out on small notice boards. I spent at least an hour walking around and was taken by the ‘Red pandas’ who were active and inquisitive strolling over their large purpose built structures, I was captivated by the way in which one of the pair came over to the edge of the enclosure as if to enquire - Why are you so interested in me? Is this close enough for a good shot? And it was.
The Himalayan Mountain Institute Museum is on the same site as the zoo and has some memorable nostalgia from our mountaineering exploits. The Everest exhibit is quite moving with 3D models of the Himalayan range and another of the tallest mountains of the world. There was also an extensive range of climbing equipment from a range of successful attempts on the summit including a pair of tiny boots worn by a climber who had lost his toes to frostbite. Spending an hour here is easy with every exhibit providing an incite into how mountaineering has changed over time - it is hard to comprehend how these brave and adventurous men ever managed to succeed in reaching the peak of Everest with the equipment available in 1953... Simply amazing.
Have met several wonderful people during my stay here including those on gap years from work, holidays and working visits. I would like to take the time to mention Iain and Sarah who I met in Kurseong and who were keen to complete some hiking around Darjeeling - They are a fantastic couple and I wish them every happiness in their future as Ian proposed during their stay here and Sarah accepted :)
Acclimatisation in Kurseong
On arriving at Silliguri rumour had it that Dar Jeeling had a strike on and therefore nothing was running!! Luckily I am heading for Kurseong for two days first…
My driver meets me from the train and as the only western tourist I am easily identified J I am informed that the main road and rail link had been blocked by and landslide so we a going to go another route - I guess this is like taking the B roads instead of A roads - However, in this instance you have to imagine that you are driving up a road along mountainsides with nothing between you and the almighty except the skill of your driver and a couple of inches of gravel!! I could feel myself clench inwardly as a looked down over the edges of precipitous drops as lorries and jeeps came cautiously down the road. As the only open route it was being heavily used and it reminded me of the Clarkson South American Challenge program - It was seriously as nerve racking 0_0 The road itself rose ever higher eventually peaking at 1450m and ran along a ridge to the hotel - A beautiful building nestled on the top of a ridge with (on a clear day) outstanding views of the Himalayas. However, the clouds had rolled in as I arrived so I had to make do with the surrounding mountains and tea plantations.
After settling in with warm shower and breakfast it was time to enjoy what Kurseong had to offer - A brief 5km hike allowed me to see how people survived and in fact thrived in this difficult landscape. Tea pickers were at work harvesting the precious tips of the tea plants and bagging them in woven baskets on their backs shaded from the sun with an umbrella each - as I passed a group of them returning from work they were all happily discussing life. Further into town you start to see many shops, all seaming to sell everything that you could possibly want - it is a bit like coming across a whole line of spar shops on one street. One store even had dairy milk chock bars… The town was busy with many people shopping for goods in the market, where fresh produce was available, even fish which was lying on banana leaves sliced up or whole ready for you to point to the bit you wanted… Strangest was the fact that some stalls/shops were selling helium filled balloons in gordy colours and even Disney characters, just seemed out of place surrounded by such beauty in the natural landscape!!
At dusk the plantation comes alive with the sound of insects, a grand cacophony which lasts into the night. Takes a little getting used to but a clear improvement on traffic noises in the cities.
Day two in Kurseong was an education in how the landscape had been affected by the influence of people. Recent landslides in the area are due in part to the heavy monsoon rainfall and in part to deforestation of the slopes. These landslides can be seen as scars on the landscape and range in size up to complete hillsides… The landscape has also been heavily influenced by tea production, the major industry and employer in the region, as tea plants have been planted over huge areas and regularly manicured of their fresh growth. Factories are dotted across the area with roads linking the production sites.
Visiting a tea factory/plantation is a sensory experience in fragrance - as you walk into the drying room the smell of tea hits you and only intensifies as you enter the rolling and sorting areas where tea is processed and separated into grades from 1st silver tip quality (appears twig like with silver tips and costs 18000r per kg or about $400 a tea box) down to tea bag quality (black dust)… The smell from the 2nd grade tea is the best, in my humble opinion but come and test it out for yourself. At the end of the factory tour we have a sample of the organic tea. A real pleasure :) The plantation was on steep slopes with a range of plants in the area - I was expecting to see row upon row of tea bushes but in fact there is bio-diversity with a range of plants mixed in with the tea including numerous trees. It is low season for tea production but we see some pickers armed with sickles and baskets making their way around the fields. A great experience when escorted by an experienced guide (this can be organised by any local hotel).
Sitting back on the veranda of the hotel overlooking the valleys either side of the Kurseong ridge it is easy to lose yourself in this breathtaking landscape, especially armed with one of the specialist Darjeeling teas brewed to your personal taste by an on site expert :)
Kurseong is peaceful and calm with stunning views in every direction. Overall an amazing place to come and enjoy while acclimatizing to altitude before travelling to Dar Jeeling on the toy train.
My driver meets me from the train and as the only western tourist I am easily identified J I am informed that the main road and rail link had been blocked by and landslide so we a going to go another route - I guess this is like taking the B roads instead of A roads - However, in this instance you have to imagine that you are driving up a road along mountainsides with nothing between you and the almighty except the skill of your driver and a couple of inches of gravel!! I could feel myself clench inwardly as a looked down over the edges of precipitous drops as lorries and jeeps came cautiously down the road. As the only open route it was being heavily used and it reminded me of the Clarkson South American Challenge program - It was seriously as nerve racking 0_0 The road itself rose ever higher eventually peaking at 1450m and ran along a ridge to the hotel - A beautiful building nestled on the top of a ridge with (on a clear day) outstanding views of the Himalayas. However, the clouds had rolled in as I arrived so I had to make do with the surrounding mountains and tea plantations.
After settling in with warm shower and breakfast it was time to enjoy what Kurseong had to offer - A brief 5km hike allowed me to see how people survived and in fact thrived in this difficult landscape. Tea pickers were at work harvesting the precious tips of the tea plants and bagging them in woven baskets on their backs shaded from the sun with an umbrella each - as I passed a group of them returning from work they were all happily discussing life. Further into town you start to see many shops, all seaming to sell everything that you could possibly want - it is a bit like coming across a whole line of spar shops on one street. One store even had dairy milk chock bars… The town was busy with many people shopping for goods in the market, where fresh produce was available, even fish which was lying on banana leaves sliced up or whole ready for you to point to the bit you wanted… Strangest was the fact that some stalls/shops were selling helium filled balloons in gordy colours and even Disney characters, just seemed out of place surrounded by such beauty in the natural landscape!!
At dusk the plantation comes alive with the sound of insects, a grand cacophony which lasts into the night. Takes a little getting used to but a clear improvement on traffic noises in the cities.
Day two in Kurseong was an education in how the landscape had been affected by the influence of people. Recent landslides in the area are due in part to the heavy monsoon rainfall and in part to deforestation of the slopes. These landslides can be seen as scars on the landscape and range in size up to complete hillsides… The landscape has also been heavily influenced by tea production, the major industry and employer in the region, as tea plants have been planted over huge areas and regularly manicured of their fresh growth. Factories are dotted across the area with roads linking the production sites.
Visiting a tea factory/plantation is a sensory experience in fragrance - as you walk into the drying room the smell of tea hits you and only intensifies as you enter the rolling and sorting areas where tea is processed and separated into grades from 1st silver tip quality (appears twig like with silver tips and costs 18000r per kg or about $400 a tea box) down to tea bag quality (black dust)… The smell from the 2nd grade tea is the best, in my humble opinion but come and test it out for yourself. At the end of the factory tour we have a sample of the organic tea. A real pleasure :) The plantation was on steep slopes with a range of plants in the area - I was expecting to see row upon row of tea bushes but in fact there is bio-diversity with a range of plants mixed in with the tea including numerous trees. It is low season for tea production but we see some pickers armed with sickles and baskets making their way around the fields. A great experience when escorted by an experienced guide (this can be organised by any local hotel).
Sitting back on the veranda of the hotel overlooking the valleys either side of the Kurseong ridge it is easy to lose yourself in this breathtaking landscape, especially armed with one of the specialist Darjeeling teas brewed to your personal taste by an on site expert :)
Kurseong is peaceful and calm with stunning views in every direction. Overall an amazing place to come and enjoy while acclimatizing to altitude before travelling to Dar Jeeling on the toy train.
A brief stop over in Kolkata
The YMCA in Kolkata is the oldest one in Asia and it looks it, the old worn steps on a busy street lead up to a small glass fronted wooden booth (The kind you used to find outside old cinemas) with paintwork peeling from the walls and the woodwork clearly showing its age and with a distinctly musty air. However, the rooms are very spacious and come with AC, a TV and hot shower and bed :)
Breakfast was a quick bite of egg, toast and tea prepared on site in a kitchen I wished I had not looked into… But hey I think I can deal with street food now… Then it was off to explore the city in the one day that I had available - The Maiden (pronounced Moi-Dan) is a large grassed area like central park which has attracted a number of hawkers selling the usual tourist bumph including snacks and postcards, however here you also have a plethora of horse drawn carriages in all colours and hues from the traditional to the space age silver. Each carriage owner states he can give you a cheap ride but the horses look very tired and worn out. A faster way to move around the city is by taxi and these are straight out of a 1950’s USA movie. They are bright yellow and fill every street with vibrant colour, each cab seems also do have been individually decorated by the owner and forget the payment shown on the meter - the prices have doubled this year!!
Sites in Kolkata not to miss are the Queen Victoria monument - Which is a marvellous construction of marble topped with an amazing sculpture entitled “Angel of Victory”. The gardens which surround it are guarded by barbed wire and are meticulously kept. The grounds men are seen constantly working to keep the park in perfect condition while the inside of the building houses some impressive statues of Queen Elizabeth and others - Although you may not take photos inside. Worth the 150r entry fee.
The Indian Museum houses some dusty relics covering fossils, Ancient Egypt, mammals and man. The building itself is run down with paint peeling and wood mouldering and many of the exhibits seem dusty and poorly stuffed… There had been a clear effort made to modernise some parts including dioramas of the human cultures of India which could make in more interesting for children but beware the mammals exhibits as within this hall you can see small human babies in jars… Not the most pleasant site… Highlight of the museum has to be the Buddhist items including a preserved gateway which is 26’ high with 9’ high walls made using interlocking beams which have been decorated with a range of wonderful images.
Finally no trip to Kolkata would be complete without a trip to Mother Theresa’s Home. This is down a tiny side street and is difficult to find, my taxi driver drove past it 3 times before coming to a halt… It is accessed via a side door where nuns continue to support the needy of the city - inside there is a small shrine to Mother Theresa which is tastefully organised with a few small arrangements and newspaper articles about her life and work. As you leave there is the opportunity to collect some flower petals from the home and place them in a piece of paper with your future intentions written on them. A moving place in its simplicity.
If eating in Kolkata and after a lovely Chinese or Indian meal you can’t go wrong with ‘Jongs’ superb food cooked to perfection and served in luxurious surroundings. Faultless on my visits here J
Breakfast was a quick bite of egg, toast and tea prepared on site in a kitchen I wished I had not looked into… But hey I think I can deal with street food now… Then it was off to explore the city in the one day that I had available - The Maiden (pronounced Moi-Dan) is a large grassed area like central park which has attracted a number of hawkers selling the usual tourist bumph including snacks and postcards, however here you also have a plethora of horse drawn carriages in all colours and hues from the traditional to the space age silver. Each carriage owner states he can give you a cheap ride but the horses look very tired and worn out. A faster way to move around the city is by taxi and these are straight out of a 1950’s USA movie. They are bright yellow and fill every street with vibrant colour, each cab seems also do have been individually decorated by the owner and forget the payment shown on the meter - the prices have doubled this year!!
Sites in Kolkata not to miss are the Queen Victoria monument - Which is a marvellous construction of marble topped with an amazing sculpture entitled “Angel of Victory”. The gardens which surround it are guarded by barbed wire and are meticulously kept. The grounds men are seen constantly working to keep the park in perfect condition while the inside of the building houses some impressive statues of Queen Elizabeth and others - Although you may not take photos inside. Worth the 150r entry fee.
The Indian Museum houses some dusty relics covering fossils, Ancient Egypt, mammals and man. The building itself is run down with paint peeling and wood mouldering and many of the exhibits seem dusty and poorly stuffed… There had been a clear effort made to modernise some parts including dioramas of the human cultures of India which could make in more interesting for children but beware the mammals exhibits as within this hall you can see small human babies in jars… Not the most pleasant site… Highlight of the museum has to be the Buddhist items including a preserved gateway which is 26’ high with 9’ high walls made using interlocking beams which have been decorated with a range of wonderful images.
Finally no trip to Kolkata would be complete without a trip to Mother Theresa’s Home. This is down a tiny side street and is difficult to find, my taxi driver drove past it 3 times before coming to a halt… It is accessed via a side door where nuns continue to support the needy of the city - inside there is a small shrine to Mother Theresa which is tastefully organised with a few small arrangements and newspaper articles about her life and work. As you leave there is the opportunity to collect some flower petals from the home and place them in a piece of paper with your future intentions written on them. A moving place in its simplicity.
If eating in Kolkata and after a lovely Chinese or Indian meal you can’t go wrong with ‘Jongs’ superb food cooked to perfection and served in luxurious surroundings. Faultless on my visits here J
Night Train from Varanasi 0_0
Travelling from Varanasi to Kolkata should have been a piece of cake with a train connection taking 14 hours… However, when I arrived at the Varanasi station bags in toe I noticed that the train did not appear on the schedule board… hmmm
Turns out the train had been cancelled!! PANIC… Over to see the tourist police who then go to the station masters office and after some discussion announce that there is a train which will go from Varanasi to Kolkata which was due to arrive the day before… But was delayed!! For a day!! Anyhow - long and short of it is that the train did appear at 8.30pm and a small band of western tourists three, two Polish and myself all got onto the 3AC carriage and awaited departure commenting on how empty the train was - we were pretty much the only passengers in the carriage… Turns out that not many people wanted to travel yesterday and so had not booked the train - now that it was a day late, few people had turned up to get it on the day… so nearly empty. The train however needed to wait for a slot on the track to depart and therefore did not actually leave the station till 12.30am!! Followed by a marathon 16hr journey stopping every so often to give way to other trains.
The scenery of West Bengal is very different from that of Utter Pradesh and Rajasthan, it has gently rolling hills and lots of greenery including palm trees and banana plants. It is also cleaner with less visible rubbish along the tracks.
Arriving in Kolkata the first priority was a cab to the hotel for all of us seconded by a shower. Two trains in two nights is a bit much…
Turns out the train had been cancelled!! PANIC… Over to see the tourist police who then go to the station masters office and after some discussion announce that there is a train which will go from Varanasi to Kolkata which was due to arrive the day before… But was delayed!! For a day!! Anyhow - long and short of it is that the train did appear at 8.30pm and a small band of western tourists three, two Polish and myself all got onto the 3AC carriage and awaited departure commenting on how empty the train was - we were pretty much the only passengers in the carriage… Turns out that not many people wanted to travel yesterday and so had not booked the train - now that it was a day late, few people had turned up to get it on the day… so nearly empty. The train however needed to wait for a slot on the track to depart and therefore did not actually leave the station till 12.30am!! Followed by a marathon 16hr journey stopping every so often to give way to other trains.
The scenery of West Bengal is very different from that of Utter Pradesh and Rajasthan, it has gently rolling hills and lots of greenery including palm trees and banana plants. It is also cleaner with less visible rubbish along the tracks.
Arriving in Kolkata the first priority was a cab to the hotel for all of us seconded by a shower. Two trains in two nights is a bit much…
Friday 1 October 2010
Waiting for a train on the rooftop Restaurant in Varanasi
This morning I noticed that my forefinger had developed a spreading rash around a larger lump which had been growing for a couple of days - decided to find a pharmacy to get it checked out - Easier said than done - You need to look for a red cross and follow the signs, the one I eventually found was down a very narrow alley and ended up being an open counter behind two shops with a set of shelving filled with boxes of all kinds of medication… The pharmacist seemed to be sitting and waiting for clients filling his time in discussion with a friend. However as I approached and said “Nameste, can you help me?”, he replied in English “what is the problem?”. A quick look at my finger led to the diagnosis “Skin disease” and leaning back he produced a tube of cream which he said to apply twice a day for ten days… No prescription (even though the tube states to be prescribed) and a total cost of 37r (50p). Well, this was very quick and efficient and a darn site cheaper than the NHS! Having accomplished the mission for the day I decided to retire to a rooftop restaurant…
Once settled in at the rooftop restaurant of the hotel I sit back taking in the serene view and supping on a Coke I consider my stay here. The frenetic nature of the place needs to be taken in your stride if you are to make the most of your visit to this holy site. Be aware that if you take a boat ride you will see the burning Ghats, where bodies are cremated openly and that the alleys are a maze of narrow passages that are difficult to navigate and become very congested with people, motorcycles and cows.
The river is in spate after the monsoon rains and the high level of the water means that it is impossible to walk along the Ghats, making the narrow alleys even more congested than normal. The river however seems peaceful as it languidly passes by carrying the detritus eroded from upstream, tree branches are the most common site to be carried past. The water is brown with sediment, which will reward places downstream with fertile soils for their crops (Sorry Geographer showing through) but it has dropped a little over my two day visit and there is are small islands (Sand banks) starting to form within the river channel and the far bank is starting to show its sandy levee.
Small boats continue to ply their trade with visitors being ferried in motorised contraptions between the Ghats - the steady put-put-put of their underpowered engines straining against the current of the river. It is however a slow time for the boatmen as the river is soo high that fewer people are able to be at the Ghats… While rowing boats are not allowed into the channel as they would be swept downstream…
Taking a final look along the tranquil river frontage of Varanasi I find it hard to believe the madness that lies just behind the façade.
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