Overall Vietnam has impressed me with its rapid development and energy towards the future, everywhere you travel there are massive building projects both for infrastructure and business creating lots of new jobs. Housing is booming with huge swathes of land going under concrete and heavy industry is still a major employer in the north. In fact tourism has grown in Vietnam this year by 35% bringing in $72billion in foreign revenue. This is all at the price of a polluted environment - so much so that even in rural areas many people wear face masks (Most have little designs on and have become an industry in themselves, could be the next 'must have' tourist item!) and growing traffic problems - the roads are a little chaotic and it is thanks to the skill of riders and drivers that there is not as many accidents as you would aspect. However there was one on the way back from Halong Bay that involved a mini-bus, car and scooter - suffice to say that the people in the mini-bus were fine…
Vietnam - a place of beauty and industry
Wednesday 29 December 2010
Last word - Be careful who you tour with...
Finally a quick word about the standard tour… Be very careful who you book with and listen to the advise of travellers who have already been there. This is your best bet for a good tour. I had already booked my tour with my travel company ‘Hanh Tours’ and this had obviously been then transferred to someone else as the standard of the tour was poor… The guide himself was ok but the boat that we were on was shocking! Just to give you some idea - At first we were not allowed to see the rooms until the evening (suspicious), then the meal seemed rationed with all the visitors packed onto two tables and fed universally (poor), then when we finally were assigned rooms the guide asked me to share a double bed and single bed with 2 other men 0_0 We all stated this would not be happening!! After some negotiation I ended up with a crews room and another passenger slept on the lower deck. My room was very small and had RATS running around in the walls and over the ceiling all night - I got very little sleep and the captain turned off the engine after 11pm which meant no water or lights!! Truly shocking and I would not go with them again (The boat was the Discovery 2 - My advise would be to avoid it).
Images of the bay
Just a taster of the hundreds of photos!! Includes the island which appears on the back of the 200,000d note and a fish farm at a floating village - with some interesting meals available ;)
Halong Bay :)
The day starts well with me being able to re-book into the Bamboo hotel on the 29th Dec and get a taxi to the airport sorted :) However, after this I find that the tour to HB starts 1 hour later than stated and the traffic to get to the bay is horrendous - as single file traffic over one bridge on route tales up all the traffic as the Vietnamese driver considers it his right to drive down the other side of the road stopping oncoming traffic and therefore leading to huge delays and tailbacks which could be avoided if people lined up and had a little patience!!
I have a difficult job as any words that I could use are insufficient to describe the wonder that is Halong Bay - but I will humbly do my best for the reader…
Halong bay is a place of mystical beauty with islands of limestone seeming to float on the ocean with serene grace. The grandeur of the landscape becomes apparent only as you pass close by transfixed by the passing naturally shaped formations of rock which seem to have been laid down in layers and then folded to form these hills which on their sides reveal the secrets of ages past and the growing pains of our planet. At sunset the landscape becomes something from a dream with the red of the setting sun reflected on the surface of the sea framing the elegant shapes of the enshrouding hills around you. Truly just magical. I can see where some artists started to draw floating mountains, as when sitting on the top deck of a drifting ship you have the strange visual effect of the nearest hills gently floating around J Wonderful…
We also visited a cave system on the standard tour - and this will be the same for all visitors who stay 2-3 nights. If you can try and get through the first commercial cave ASAP as it is the second cave which has been left far more in its natural form and has almost no visitors!! I was there alone but the first cave had coach loads of eager photographers taking group photos posed in front of pillars and stalagmites. If you opt for the three day tour then it will mean a trip to Cat Ba island (Another area which is growing rapidly with huge tourist hotels and restaurants fronting the island). However there is a national park covering a large area and for 15,000d you can hike up the tallest hill along a quite challenging trail - you will find yourself literally clambering over rocks and pulling yourself up over obstacles until you reach the peak which grants you stunning views of the Karst landscape. Wonderful. If your brave and lucky enough you could be one of the few to climb to the top of the 10m rusty, shaky iron tower on the top of the peak!!
The most shocking sight of the day must been the ‘Dynamite Fishing’ being carried out by local boatmen as we turned into the secluded cove. The thumping boom could be heard like a mini depth charge across the water and fish would float to the surface stunned. Mad.
I have a difficult job as any words that I could use are insufficient to describe the wonder that is Halong Bay - but I will humbly do my best for the reader…
Halong bay is a place of mystical beauty with islands of limestone seeming to float on the ocean with serene grace. The grandeur of the landscape becomes apparent only as you pass close by transfixed by the passing naturally shaped formations of rock which seem to have been laid down in layers and then folded to form these hills which on their sides reveal the secrets of ages past and the growing pains of our planet. At sunset the landscape becomes something from a dream with the red of the setting sun reflected on the surface of the sea framing the elegant shapes of the enshrouding hills around you. Truly just magical. I can see where some artists started to draw floating mountains, as when sitting on the top deck of a drifting ship you have the strange visual effect of the nearest hills gently floating around J Wonderful…
We also visited a cave system on the standard tour - and this will be the same for all visitors who stay 2-3 nights. If you can try and get through the first commercial cave ASAP as it is the second cave which has been left far more in its natural form and has almost no visitors!! I was there alone but the first cave had coach loads of eager photographers taking group photos posed in front of pillars and stalagmites. If you opt for the three day tour then it will mean a trip to Cat Ba island (Another area which is growing rapidly with huge tourist hotels and restaurants fronting the island). However there is a national park covering a large area and for 15,000d you can hike up the tallest hill along a quite challenging trail - you will find yourself literally clambering over rocks and pulling yourself up over obstacles until you reach the peak which grants you stunning views of the Karst landscape. Wonderful. If your brave and lucky enough you could be one of the few to climb to the top of the 10m rusty, shaky iron tower on the top of the peak!!
The most shocking sight of the day must been the ‘Dynamite Fishing’ being carried out by local boatmen as we turned into the secluded cove. The thumping boom could be heard like a mini depth charge across the water and fish would float to the surface stunned. Mad.
Parting of ways
Final day in Hanoi was spent chilling out - as it was boxing day, a quick jaunt down to the coffee shop for cake and coffee overlooking the much quieter roads around the central lake of old town then on to Gecko’s for lunch and a brisk walk around the lake. Finally it was time to part company with Stef who was due to bus out to Laos today - Hooking up with Stef really made it a fantastic Christmas (Thank you) in Hanoi with tales of legendary feats and descriptions of places that will one day in the future be worthy of a visit :) After parting ways it was time for me to prepare for Halong Bay and the water sports trip…
Saturday 25 December 2010
Family Christmas
The travellers meet :)
Gecko - the perfect place for a glass of wine and Christmas meal in Vietnam.
Christmas Day - Hanoi
MERRY CHRISTMAS to all friends, family and blog followers out there :)
It is a little weird to be away from the UK for Christmas day… However, waking up I unwrap my present from home packed at the start of the travel - It was great to reveal the familiar image of Ely Cathedral in the snow, taking me back home, in mind at least :) Thank you.
Christmas day is like any other in Hanoi as nothing actually closes… So we walk around the city to the ‘Ho Chi Min Mausoleum’ with its modernist complex and range of plants from all over Vietnam meticulously cared for all around. As you arrive you must go through a security check and there are no cameras or phones allowed inside - The guards all where white uniforms and are like the Palace guard at Buckingham Palace, it was fab to see the changing of the guard while we were waiting out turn in single file to walk past the embalmed father of the nation. An unreal experience, as we slowly shuffle past HCM who lies in state entombed within a glass case flanked by four armed guards - I was very impressed with the respect shown to HCM by all visitors and the shear size of the Mausoleum. A humbling experience and one I would recommend for all visitors to Hanoi (Bare in mind that it is only open between 8-11am so get there early). The War museum is also worth a visit as it has a citadel that you can climb and have views of the city as well as a graveyard of armaments from US forces and an in depth display on French rule and its collapse…
Finally a great place to eat in Hanoi is “Geko Café - Luong Ngoc Quyen St” (In the backpackers quarter) where you can get Duck in orange sauce which is wonderful and makes a good Christmas dinner accompanied by a bottle of red wine :) Being able to have Christmas dinner with family in Hanoi was the best Christmas present I could ask for and it has been simply wonderful catching up on Stef’s travels - I wish him well on his future travels. Also worth remembering that you can contact friends and family anywhere in the world over SKYPE - its free - and generally speaking it is good. :)
It is a little weird to be away from the UK for Christmas day… However, waking up I unwrap my present from home packed at the start of the travel - It was great to reveal the familiar image of Ely Cathedral in the snow, taking me back home, in mind at least :) Thank you.
Christmas day is like any other in Hanoi as nothing actually closes… So we walk around the city to the ‘Ho Chi Min Mausoleum’ with its modernist complex and range of plants from all over Vietnam meticulously cared for all around. As you arrive you must go through a security check and there are no cameras or phones allowed inside - The guards all where white uniforms and are like the Palace guard at Buckingham Palace, it was fab to see the changing of the guard while we were waiting out turn in single file to walk past the embalmed father of the nation. An unreal experience, as we slowly shuffle past HCM who lies in state entombed within a glass case flanked by four armed guards - I was very impressed with the respect shown to HCM by all visitors and the shear size of the Mausoleum. A humbling experience and one I would recommend for all visitors to Hanoi (Bare in mind that it is only open between 8-11am so get there early). The War museum is also worth a visit as it has a citadel that you can climb and have views of the city as well as a graveyard of armaments from US forces and an in depth display on French rule and its collapse…
Finally a great place to eat in Hanoi is “Geko Café - Luong Ngoc Quyen St” (In the backpackers quarter) where you can get Duck in orange sauce which is wonderful and makes a good Christmas dinner accompanied by a bottle of red wine :) Being able to have Christmas dinner with family in Hanoi was the best Christmas present I could ask for and it has been simply wonderful catching up on Stef’s travels - I wish him well on his future travels. Also worth remembering that you can contact friends and family anywhere in the world over SKYPE - its free - and generally speaking it is good. :)
Christmas Eve in Hanoi
A day to visit the museums on foot. As normal the traffic is mad with scooters using the pavements as well as the roads!! However, the museums here are well organised and have recently been refurbished. I would advise a visit to the Women’s museum as it gives an insight into ‘street vendors’, ‘family life’, ‘women’s role in the war’, ‘fashion’ and the future all displayed using video, images and models over 4 floors. Two other museums include the History museum and revolution museum found near to the opera house and include war relics and propaganda. Both informative and interesting and will certainly fill an hour or two each.
Bare in mind that both the ’Mausalium of Ho Chi Min’ and the ‘War Museum’ are shut on Friday and Monday.
Finally ‘Midnight Mass’ is held at the Cua Bac Church in English was quite an experience, and although not in a Cathedral the church was decorated for Christmas with a complete nativity scene lit up on the outside and hundreds of people in attendance. Due to our early arrival Stef and I had front row seats to the service (which meant of course that we had the eyes of the congregation on us as we indicated when to stand/sit etc 0_0). However, the service progressed well and at times in Latin! And we emerged at 1am to head back to the hotel, which was the biggest challenge as the first taxi we stopped and showed where we wanted to go just said no and sped off!! Still found one for the run in the end…
Bare in mind that both the ’Mausalium of Ho Chi Min’ and the ‘War Museum’ are shut on Friday and Monday.
Finally ‘Midnight Mass’ is held at the Cua Bac Church in English was quite an experience, and although not in a Cathedral the church was decorated for Christmas with a complete nativity scene lit up on the outside and hundreds of people in attendance. Due to our early arrival Stef and I had front row seats to the service (which meant of course that we had the eyes of the congregation on us as we indicated when to stand/sit etc 0_0). However, the service progressed well and at times in Latin! And we emerged at 1am to head back to the hotel, which was the biggest challenge as the first taxi we stopped and showed where we wanted to go just said no and sped off!! Still found one for the run in the end…
Hanoi - Day 1
Talk about off to a flying start, I must have walked most of the city centre and explored streets until I became lost and off the map… Soon backtracked to a point I could gain my bairings though ;) Found a Highlands coffee (with a limited selection of cakes but fantastic views from the 3rd floor balcony!) for a refuel before walking around the central lake, this is worth a visit as they had a selection of mini sculpture on display, one in the form of a row of lotus flowers, eye-catching and adds a splash of colour in the smog!! In this same area a short walk takes you to the wonderful Opera House with a fantastic Pattisarie across the street selling Italian dishes. Another short walk takes you across from the lake and to St Joseph cathedral, this is a truly magnificent gem - it is a must see, not for the intricate architecture on the outside or the vivid nativity scene outside, but for the magnificent gothic interior and the ornate displays in the alcoves as well as a complete wooden alter. Truly wonderful and a break from the madness of the traffic outside. (There is a midnight mass here but in Vietnamese so I will try to attend one in the local church). Hanoi also boasts a large number of restaurants, pubs, cafes and craft markets/shops, the most impressive of these is the propaganda posters gallery…
I end the day at ‘Le Pub’ funnily enough in the form of an old English bar!! Sells beers from all over the world including Leffe, Hiennaken and other Euro faves ($5 a bottle), but the local stuff is $1 a bottle and is fine for those who want to partake of the amber nector ;) They also do soft drinks and light snacks.
Stef arrived today and it was a fantastic surprise to see him at the door at 6.30pm - the two travellers hook up for Christmas! :) Great to exchange stories of travels over a curry and beer.
I end the day at ‘Le Pub’ funnily enough in the form of an old English bar!! Sells beers from all over the world including Leffe, Hiennaken and other Euro faves ($5 a bottle), but the local stuff is $1 a bottle and is fine for those who want to partake of the amber nector ;) They also do soft drinks and light snacks.
Stef arrived today and it was a fantastic surprise to see him at the door at 6.30pm - the two travellers hook up for Christmas! :) Great to exchange stories of travels over a curry and beer.
DMZ tour
The DMZ (De-Militarised Zone) was something I was very interested in seeing and learning more about so I booked onto the ‘Hanh Café’ tour starting at 6am with breakfast… It started at 6.30 with breakfast of egg and bread with coffee (which is extra!!). Then onto the coach for the road trip to 9 sites… Some more impressive than others. Total cost $10.
Stop one is the crossroads of Highways 1 & 9 which makes it an important town in controlling the area, to be honest it is nothing but a transport stop with heavy traffic and lots of roadside stalls and poor quality hotels. Nothing to see - just the history of interest although you stop here for lunch (extra). Then onto other sites including a memorial to the fallen (built in 2004), an important bridge at Dakrong (Which was important but collapsed in 1999 and was rebuilt), the Khe San combat base used by the Americans for air support (which today has touts selling medals from the war and bullets!! Two even got into a fight when they were trying to compete for a sale 0_0), a hill used for artillery which was overrun and a museum with helicopters, bunkers, plane wrecks and a propagandist history of events. The final stop is the Vinh Moc Tunnel system complete with museum and guided tour. This is interesting to see how people lived in an area heavily bombed - the tunnels were larger than Cu Chi and housed 400 people with a hall, maternity wing (where 17 children were born) and small cubicles for families. Even though larger than Cu Chi they remained hot and sweaty places which were pitch black in places…
Also of interest is the landscape of the DMZ which seems to be a flat plane bordered by two hill ranges one controlled by the Viet Minh/Cong and one by the Americans. Today the landscape is back to lush forest, Rice fields and along the coast shrimp tanks. Still the areas affected by agent orange can clearly be seen by the new growth being light green against the dark green old forest.
Overall the tour is of interest and worth the $10 but avoid if you can any long stay in Dong Ha Town. I spent 2 hours there waiting for a bus and could feel my lungs being filled with dirt and traffic fumes 0_0 and there is nowhere to escape this!!
Next up was a 14hr overnight bus journey to Hanoi… Which of course ended up being an hour late and was along rough roads, which allowed very little sleep. My advise would be to take the train between Hue and Hanoi as it must surely be a more pleasant experience…
On arrival in Hanoi the taxi overcharged due to a dodgy meter - getting into town from the bus stand should cost no more than 100,000d but my one charged 350,000d!! 0_0 beware dodgy dealers. Advise would be to find a taxi already roaming not one which the bus company steers you to. Hanoi is busy over Christmas and my first shoice hotel was full - However, after a little walking I found the Bamboo Hotel which costs $25 a night for the balcony room with AC, breakfast and hot water. (Be aware that the hotel is not where it is located on the map from Lonely Planet… The address is right but the location on the map is wrong!!).
Stop one is the crossroads of Highways 1 & 9 which makes it an important town in controlling the area, to be honest it is nothing but a transport stop with heavy traffic and lots of roadside stalls and poor quality hotels. Nothing to see - just the history of interest although you stop here for lunch (extra). Then onto other sites including a memorial to the fallen (built in 2004), an important bridge at Dakrong (Which was important but collapsed in 1999 and was rebuilt), the Khe San combat base used by the Americans for air support (which today has touts selling medals from the war and bullets!! Two even got into a fight when they were trying to compete for a sale 0_0), a hill used for artillery which was overrun and a museum with helicopters, bunkers, plane wrecks and a propagandist history of events. The final stop is the Vinh Moc Tunnel system complete with museum and guided tour. This is interesting to see how people lived in an area heavily bombed - the tunnels were larger than Cu Chi and housed 400 people with a hall, maternity wing (where 17 children were born) and small cubicles for families. Even though larger than Cu Chi they remained hot and sweaty places which were pitch black in places…
Also of interest is the landscape of the DMZ which seems to be a flat plane bordered by two hill ranges one controlled by the Viet Minh/Cong and one by the Americans. Today the landscape is back to lush forest, Rice fields and along the coast shrimp tanks. Still the areas affected by agent orange can clearly be seen by the new growth being light green against the dark green old forest.
Overall the tour is of interest and worth the $10 but avoid if you can any long stay in Dong Ha Town. I spent 2 hours there waiting for a bus and could feel my lungs being filled with dirt and traffic fumes 0_0 and there is nowhere to escape this!!
Next up was a 14hr overnight bus journey to Hanoi… Which of course ended up being an hour late and was along rough roads, which allowed very little sleep. My advise would be to take the train between Hue and Hanoi as it must surely be a more pleasant experience…
On arrival in Hanoi the taxi overcharged due to a dodgy meter - getting into town from the bus stand should cost no more than 100,000d but my one charged 350,000d!! 0_0 beware dodgy dealers. Advise would be to find a taxi already roaming not one which the bus company steers you to. Hanoi is busy over Christmas and my first shoice hotel was full - However, after a little walking I found the Bamboo Hotel which costs $25 a night for the balcony room with AC, breakfast and hot water. (Be aware that the hotel is not where it is located on the map from Lonely Planet… The address is right but the location on the map is wrong!!).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
