Tuesday 4 January 2011
My last day in Hong Kong so time to check out the ‘Happy Valley’ race course and its museum ;) For all of those horse lovers out there who love a flutter this is the place to come on event days as it is a wonderfully organised location with plenty of room in the stands. The building is of modern design and houses not only the horse track but also a plethora of other sports venues which I can testify have been well used - of course I would have used the jogging track myself if I had my trainers ;)
The Museum is housed in the main building on the second floor accessed via a lift. It is a quiet place when there is no events on… I was the only visitor at the time and was treated to a luxury tour of the site with a potted history of the course some memorabilia from historic race meets (Including the Elizabeth II cup) and information on how horse racing is run/organised. It is very interesting and ends with a stuffed thoroughbred who looks rather hairy for a race horse but of course he did retire to a stud for several years!! Overall, a quiet and well presented museum which is FREE. Well worth a visit if your in the area.
Second stop of the day was Victoria Park, a large green open space in the middle of the Causeway Bay area in which people are encouraged to take part in a number of activities to maintain fitness - there are free exercise machines around the park and a jogging track and for the more sedate (Includes me), there is a peaceful garden area with a range of labelled trees and flowing shrubs. A lazy place to while away an hour or so… While I was there they were setting up for the Expo starting tomorrow!!
Last stop today was for the ‘Noon Day Gun’, a tradition dating back hundreds of years in which a cannon is fired at noon, theoretically setting the time for the city :)
Once again - when I visited it was closed off for a private party so the huge crowd of 6 people who had gathered to be there watched on from outside the fenced area… Only to be treated to ‘Venus Williams’ & two other lady tennis stars arriving with entourage to fire the gun (It is now only a three pounder after locals had complained about the noise from the six pounder - However I can tell you now the three pounder had plenty of bang behind it!!). Great surprise to see a larger than life celebrity pulling the cord, a fitting end to my stay in the neon city. Next stop Beijing, so I had better get some gloves!
The Museum is housed in the main building on the second floor accessed via a lift. It is a quiet place when there is no events on… I was the only visitor at the time and was treated to a luxury tour of the site with a potted history of the course some memorabilia from historic race meets (Including the Elizabeth II cup) and information on how horse racing is run/organised. It is very interesting and ends with a stuffed thoroughbred who looks rather hairy for a race horse but of course he did retire to a stud for several years!! Overall, a quiet and well presented museum which is FREE. Well worth a visit if your in the area.
Second stop of the day was Victoria Park, a large green open space in the middle of the Causeway Bay area in which people are encouraged to take part in a number of activities to maintain fitness - there are free exercise machines around the park and a jogging track and for the more sedate (Includes me), there is a peaceful garden area with a range of labelled trees and flowing shrubs. A lazy place to while away an hour or so… While I was there they were setting up for the Expo starting tomorrow!!
Last stop today was for the ‘Noon Day Gun’, a tradition dating back hundreds of years in which a cannon is fired at noon, theoretically setting the time for the city :)
Once again - when I visited it was closed off for a private party so the huge crowd of 6 people who had gathered to be there watched on from outside the fenced area… Only to be treated to ‘Venus Williams’ & two other lady tennis stars arriving with entourage to fire the gun (It is now only a three pounder after locals had complained about the noise from the six pounder - However I can tell you now the three pounder had plenty of bang behind it!!). Great surprise to see a larger than life celebrity pulling the cord, a fitting end to my stay in the neon city. Next stop Beijing, so I had better get some gloves!
Soho
On returning to the ground level I head off towards Soho - I am keen on art and this is the centre for antique shops and small independent art galleries (bear in mind that many of them are by appointment only but it does not stop you from window shopping ;)). One gallery had some wonderful art from Vietnam.
Soho is a tightly packed set of steep, small, crowded allies flanked by an impressive array of stalls and small shops selling everything that you could possibly want, the smells are engrossing with fresh flowers competing with cooking food and raw fish - a wonderful experience and one which once again reminds me of the early street scenes from ‘Blade runner’… Be aware that if you are tall that like me you will be ducking under canopies regularly J Once again the enchantingly clanky tram takes me back to Times Square and the hotel.
Soho is a tightly packed set of steep, small, crowded allies flanked by an impressive array of stalls and small shops selling everything that you could possibly want, the smells are engrossing with fresh flowers competing with cooking food and raw fish - a wonderful experience and one which once again reminds me of the early street scenes from ‘Blade runner’… Be aware that if you are tall that like me you will be ducking under canopies regularly J Once again the enchantingly clanky tram takes me back to Times Square and the hotel.
There are a number of trekking routes around Hong Kong and one of them starts at the Peak and runs for 50km… I did not really think I had time for this so I set off to complete two smaller trails totalling 4km. The trek takes you through forested hillsides in many places strengthened by concrete covering. Along the pathways set out for tourists and locals there are a number of exercise parks to allow you to complete pull ups (I give this a go and complete 3 reps…), balance beam walks and monkey swings etc. Next up you come to a lookout spot on the opposite side of the hill - this is the location for the remains of a Hong Kong Pill Box set up to defend against possible Japanese invasion from the sea… It does have good views of the other side of the island - but today is misty! Walking further around the pathway I bump into a work crew carrying out cement works to strengthen a slope at risk of falling then continue to walk until I find a view point which is actually better than the platform!! So, my advise would be, if you want the best view of the harbour, is to walk along the ‘morning walk’ and at the 3rd km mark you will find the most impressive panoramic vista’s of the whole of the harbour - not just one section of it as from the Sky viewing platform.
A visit to the Peak
Today was a chance to climb to ‘The Peak’, cheating a little by using the Peak Tram, which is a historic monument to engineering. The tram station itself is close to the central MRT and is within easy walking distance from the city centre (Do make some effort to detour to St Johns Cathedral - a little hidden gem amongst the mammoth skyscrapers around it). On arrival at the peak tram station you have several options for tickets ranging in price - I would suggest a return ticket with the observation ‘Sky’ ticket $56 (£5ish).
Arriving early in the afternoon (Low season) I find very few people lining up and quickly board the tram for the summit ;) The seats are wooden and have no padding so make sure that you set yourself comfortably as the tram takes off up the steep slope… There is a lot of weight on your back on the way up and a few little judders but some of the route has views off to the right hand side…
Arriving at the summit you have several options including a range of restaurants, café’s and stores… However, the Sky viewing platform was my first stop - this means another five escalator rides up onto the roof of the newly built observation deck - It has wonderful views of the cityscape below, but today there is mist restricting views to the island itself… Still impressive and worth the extra £1 on your ticket.
Retracing my steps back down the escalators I find a restaurant named “Bubba Gump Shrimp co.”!! Straight from the ’Forest Gump’ film and with merchandise making the most of the film through “Run, Forest, Run” slogans 0_0 If this is not enough for you there is also a Madame Tussauds here!! But it is pricey at over $100 a ticket… I instead opt for coffee in Pacific Coffee…
Arriving early in the afternoon (Low season) I find very few people lining up and quickly board the tram for the summit ;) The seats are wooden and have no padding so make sure that you set yourself comfortably as the tram takes off up the steep slope… There is a lot of weight on your back on the way up and a few little judders but some of the route has views off to the right hand side…
Arriving at the summit you have several options including a range of restaurants, café’s and stores… However, the Sky viewing platform was my first stop - this means another five escalator rides up onto the roof of the newly built observation deck - It has wonderful views of the cityscape below, but today there is mist restricting views to the island itself… Still impressive and worth the extra £1 on your ticket.
Retracing my steps back down the escalators I find a restaurant named “Bubba Gump Shrimp co.”!! Straight from the ’Forest Gump’ film and with merchandise making the most of the film through “Run, Forest, Run” slogans 0_0 If this is not enough for you there is also a Madame Tussauds here!! But it is pricey at over $100 a ticket… I instead opt for coffee in Pacific Coffee…
Sunday 2 January 2011
New Years Day (Dragon Dance Festival - Guinness Record)
Bleary eyed I mysteriously wake up early at 6am… Hm… must be the excitement of the day ahead ;) New Years Day sees the breaking of a world record here in Kowloon with the largest number of Lion & Dragon dancers taking part in a parade. The site is magical with lion costumes as far as the eye can see along ‘Canton Road’ with eager crowds lining their route. Due to start at 2pm it eventually begins at 3pm with two HUGE Oriental Dragon costumes being paraded through the streets at the head of the parade - The skill of the dancers is magnificent with a writhing serpentine mass seeming to come alivbe around them as it was led towards the harbour by a man seeming to carry a giant lolly… hm…
Behind the two dragons came 1,111 Lion dancers of all ages and many from clubs or schools - once again the costumes were brought to life through the dexterity and skill of the dancers with flapping eyes, mouths and ears and a body made to look mystical. There are two people per lion and this makes it possible for the ‘lion’ to double in height or to contortion itself through one dancer holding the other off the ground or jumping around. Purely wonderful and an event that I am sure will happen every year.
After two long days it was time to chill - so time out - and a visit to see TRON the movie… (I will not spoil it for you but I enjoyed it as a distraction).
Eating out in Hong Kong can be expensive, but take it from me, you can get marvellous local noodles with any combination of flavours for less than you think - many streets stands or hole in the wall eateries cater for all needs and even around Times Square it is possible to find them (Although sometimes the menu is not in English - just point at what you want and let the mysterious culinary journey begin ;)). I had a large bowl of ‘mildly’ (Turned out to be very spicy) noodles from a hole in the wall diner for $32 (£3), it was great, while you’re here check it out - be adventurous and you will be rewarded with a warm welcome from the staff of the restaurants and the locals who eat there ;)
And if you cannot handle the heat there is always the fall back option of ‘Starbucks’ which seems to have sprouted cafés all over town and a wealth of multi-national eateries.
Behind the two dragons came 1,111 Lion dancers of all ages and many from clubs or schools - once again the costumes were brought to life through the dexterity and skill of the dancers with flapping eyes, mouths and ears and a body made to look mystical. There are two people per lion and this makes it possible for the ‘lion’ to double in height or to contortion itself through one dancer holding the other off the ground or jumping around. Purely wonderful and an event that I am sure will happen every year.
After two long days it was time to chill - so time out - and a visit to see TRON the movie… (I will not spoil it for you but I enjoyed it as a distraction).
Eating out in Hong Kong can be expensive, but take it from me, you can get marvellous local noodles with any combination of flavours for less than you think - many streets stands or hole in the wall eateries cater for all needs and even around Times Square it is possible to find them (Although sometimes the menu is not in English - just point at what you want and let the mysterious culinary journey begin ;)). I had a large bowl of ‘mildly’ (Turned out to be very spicy) noodles from a hole in the wall diner for $32 (£3), it was great, while you’re here check it out - be adventurous and you will be rewarded with a warm welcome from the staff of the restaurants and the locals who eat there ;)
And if you cannot handle the heat there is always the fall back option of ‘Starbucks’ which seems to have sprouted cafés all over town and a wealth of multi-national eateries.
Video - New Years Hong Kong
I hope that this works - if it does it will add another element to the blog ;)
New Years: Hong Kong Style
The big day has arrived and all preparation has been made - the streets will be closed from 6.30pm to traffic and endless lines of metal barriers have started to sprout along pavements to allow police and emergency services access to all areas.
I wanted to procure a spot before the crowds set in so decided that mid afternoon would be the best time to start walking towards my chosen viewing spot from the ‘Avenue of Stars’ (This takes about 1 hour from my hotel). Along the route it is possible to ride the authentic narrow wooden tram for $2 (20p) a journey and I would highly recommend the experience as it is cheap regular and heavily used. The wonderful clanking noises that it makes as it goes along are Victorian in nature and the method of payment is simple - get on through a small turnstile at the back or front of the tram then make payment when you get off by depositing your $2 coin in the box near the driver - just be aware that this is the only exit from the tram as the turnstiles at the rear are one way!!
Second mode of transport is the ‘Star Ferry’ another wonderful and cheap form of travel across the bay from either Central pier 7 or Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The old girls make the trip every few minutes and the time before the next departure is clearly shown giving you plenty of time to board and settle into the seats which have reversible backs to allow you to choose your facing for the best views :) All of this is yours for $2.50 (25p)!! Simply magical and the cheapest way to see the harbour… No need to splash out on expensive tours…
Kowloon is an opulent location with the cultural centre, several museums and more gold than you can shake a stick at! Walking around the stores here you are overwhelmed by the wealth being flaunted, Cartier, Rolex, Louis Vouton and Gucci are just a few of the brand names lignin the streets here with huge stores (some of them have more than one!!) which attract a large number of wealthy elite who today have to wait to get in as the stores have security to reduce overcrowding (Clearly these guys have not seen the crowds in John Lewis/Debenhams or H&M as a crowd in Gucci seemed to me to be if there was more than one person per section!!) - Anyhoo they seemed to be doing great business.
By 6pm I had arrived at the Avenue of Stars, watched over by some celluloid covered female Oscar style statue and swamped in several thousand people!! After 5 mins I had found a spot near the barriers in a perfect location to observe the fireworks J It was however 6 hours away!! Luckily there was a large number of people around making the hours pass as minutes, in particular, two Argentine teachers had travelled here for their summer holidays and it was interesting to hear there views on education…
As the evening wore on the police taped off our area to avoid any more people entering and finally cordoned off the Avenue of Stars to more people…
At 8pm we were all treated to the ’Symphony of lights’ a world record breaking light show put on by the buildings around the harbour and set to music - I feel that tonight was one of its largest audiences as most people around me are settled in on newspaper ready for the countdown to the new year. Still it is an enjoyable distraction (Interlude) before the big show. 4 hours to go…
As time counts down to the big event small boats and ships start to float into the best position along the harbour with cheering and dancing revellers upon the decks (This was an expensive option to enjoy the show and to be honest I do not feel their view was any better but at least they had a party and got those on shore involved by calling out to us!)… More time passed and the harbour became a jostling mass of vessels which the police boats did there best to control while the crowds were interviewed by media and given free 2011 inflatable clappers!! The noise was immense… 1 hour to go… the tension builds…
11.59 and the crowd draws in one huge breath and begins to count down, Huge numbers on the financial building tick away the seconds, accompanied by bellowed numbers from the crowd until…
YYYEEEAAAHHHHHH - the crowd goes wild ;)
HAPPY NEW YEAR is announced in a fanfare of lights and fireworks from all along the harbour front. It is a grand spectacle and one which I will not forget - The staggering light show is on a par with London and lasts for 10 minutes. If you are anywhere near make your way here next year and enjoy first hand as watching on TV does not do it justice.
After the show it is time to wend my way back to the Cosmopolitan Hotel… But all the people have the same idea… I am caught in a heaving mass of humanity all trying to get home and I am carried in the human tide towards Kowloon before meeting a small current of people heading for the docks… Soon our little current is once again crossed by a seething mass of people heading to Kowloon Central and the police have blocked our route 0_0 (This is to avoid congestion and to aid the flow of people away from the event and to be honest it works) After 15 mins of waiting we are released from the barriers blocking our route and the human flow of people glides like a wave towards the waiting pier and late running ferries which for $3 take us back to the island and a little stroll home. I make it back for 2am and a well deserved bed!! However, I am still aware that it will be another 6 hours before the guys in London celebrate the same event ;)
Happy New Year to all my readers and may the year ahead bring you every happiness
I raise a toast to you all - Cheers
:)
I wanted to procure a spot before the crowds set in so decided that mid afternoon would be the best time to start walking towards my chosen viewing spot from the ‘Avenue of Stars’ (This takes about 1 hour from my hotel). Along the route it is possible to ride the authentic narrow wooden tram for $2 (20p) a journey and I would highly recommend the experience as it is cheap regular and heavily used. The wonderful clanking noises that it makes as it goes along are Victorian in nature and the method of payment is simple - get on through a small turnstile at the back or front of the tram then make payment when you get off by depositing your $2 coin in the box near the driver - just be aware that this is the only exit from the tram as the turnstiles at the rear are one way!!
Second mode of transport is the ‘Star Ferry’ another wonderful and cheap form of travel across the bay from either Central pier 7 or Wan Chai to Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. The old girls make the trip every few minutes and the time before the next departure is clearly shown giving you plenty of time to board and settle into the seats which have reversible backs to allow you to choose your facing for the best views :) All of this is yours for $2.50 (25p)!! Simply magical and the cheapest way to see the harbour… No need to splash out on expensive tours…
Kowloon is an opulent location with the cultural centre, several museums and more gold than you can shake a stick at! Walking around the stores here you are overwhelmed by the wealth being flaunted, Cartier, Rolex, Louis Vouton and Gucci are just a few of the brand names lignin the streets here with huge stores (some of them have more than one!!) which attract a large number of wealthy elite who today have to wait to get in as the stores have security to reduce overcrowding (Clearly these guys have not seen the crowds in John Lewis/Debenhams or H&M as a crowd in Gucci seemed to me to be if there was more than one person per section!!) - Anyhoo they seemed to be doing great business.
By 6pm I had arrived at the Avenue of Stars, watched over by some celluloid covered female Oscar style statue and swamped in several thousand people!! After 5 mins I had found a spot near the barriers in a perfect location to observe the fireworks J It was however 6 hours away!! Luckily there was a large number of people around making the hours pass as minutes, in particular, two Argentine teachers had travelled here for their summer holidays and it was interesting to hear there views on education…
As the evening wore on the police taped off our area to avoid any more people entering and finally cordoned off the Avenue of Stars to more people…
At 8pm we were all treated to the ’Symphony of lights’ a world record breaking light show put on by the buildings around the harbour and set to music - I feel that tonight was one of its largest audiences as most people around me are settled in on newspaper ready for the countdown to the new year. Still it is an enjoyable distraction (Interlude) before the big show. 4 hours to go…
As time counts down to the big event small boats and ships start to float into the best position along the harbour with cheering and dancing revellers upon the decks (This was an expensive option to enjoy the show and to be honest I do not feel their view was any better but at least they had a party and got those on shore involved by calling out to us!)… More time passed and the harbour became a jostling mass of vessels which the police boats did there best to control while the crowds were interviewed by media and given free 2011 inflatable clappers!! The noise was immense… 1 hour to go… the tension builds…
11.59 and the crowd draws in one huge breath and begins to count down, Huge numbers on the financial building tick away the seconds, accompanied by bellowed numbers from the crowd until…
YYYEEEAAAHHHHHH - the crowd goes wild ;)
HAPPY NEW YEAR is announced in a fanfare of lights and fireworks from all along the harbour front. It is a grand spectacle and one which I will not forget - The staggering light show is on a par with London and lasts for 10 minutes. If you are anywhere near make your way here next year and enjoy first hand as watching on TV does not do it justice.
After the show it is time to wend my way back to the Cosmopolitan Hotel… But all the people have the same idea… I am caught in a heaving mass of humanity all trying to get home and I am carried in the human tide towards Kowloon before meeting a small current of people heading for the docks… Soon our little current is once again crossed by a seething mass of people heading to Kowloon Central and the police have blocked our route 0_0 (This is to avoid congestion and to aid the flow of people away from the event and to be honest it works) After 15 mins of waiting we are released from the barriers blocking our route and the human flow of people glides like a wave towards the waiting pier and late running ferries which for $3 take us back to the island and a little stroll home. I make it back for 2am and a well deserved bed!! However, I am still aware that it will be another 6 hours before the guys in London celebrate the same event ;)
Happy New Year to all my readers and may the year ahead bring you every happiness
I raise a toast to you all - Cheers
:)
Hello Hong Kong :)
Arriving in Hong Kong is to arrive into a vertical city ;) On arrival it was a simple matter of organising onwards transport on the Airport Shuttle ($100hk/£10) which takes 24mins to reach the islands Hong Kong central station - onwards to major hotels is free via shuttle buses - so no need to take a taxi, make use of public transport (Its quick, clean and efficient) :)
The Cosmopolitan Hotel is located beside the ‘Happy Valley’ racecourse and I find my room on the 10th floor has a wonderful panoramic view of the course and surrounding hillsides covered in sky scrapers. However, I am unable to see the water front and its light show / fireworks unless I walk 30mins down the road… Walking around the local area I soon discover a secret side to HK, there are many small parks and recreational spaces enabling people of all ages to enjoy several pass times including Tai Chi and basketball :) There are also a number of small market areas with restaurants in basements and tiny rooms serving up hot and tasty meals for small prices. Also located along the major roads you can find those westernised standards of ‘Starbucks’ and ‘Pizza Express’ but these have prices on par with those in the UK. My first afternoon has left me with a little crick in my neck from constantly looking up and I must have resembled a gorking tourist for several hours… As of course I was…
The Cosmopolitan Hotel is located beside the ‘Happy Valley’ racecourse and I find my room on the 10th floor has a wonderful panoramic view of the course and surrounding hillsides covered in sky scrapers. However, I am unable to see the water front and its light show / fireworks unless I walk 30mins down the road… Walking around the local area I soon discover a secret side to HK, there are many small parks and recreational spaces enabling people of all ages to enjoy several pass times including Tai Chi and basketball :) There are also a number of small market areas with restaurants in basements and tiny rooms serving up hot and tasty meals for small prices. Also located along the major roads you can find those westernised standards of ‘Starbucks’ and ‘Pizza Express’ but these have prices on par with those in the UK. My first afternoon has left me with a little crick in my neck from constantly looking up and I must have resembled a gorking tourist for several hours… As of course I was…
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