Jaislamer

After a 19 hour marathon train journey we arrive at the suprisingly green Jaisalmer. Suprising because it is the arid area of India usually prone to prolonged periods without rain, however this year they have had more rain than usual (Our hotel owner stated that it was the most that she had seen in 11 years!). This has had the effect of making the desert green :) with grass and bushes sprouting up green shoots which the camels and goats then feen on as they roam free... The rains have also filled the nearby lake and this has led to the spawning of the catfish - on going to the lake it was possible to see thousands of catfish all competing for the food being thrown to them from locals out for a day visit to the water, even the peddle boats had been dusted off and sent onto the water with adventurous tourists, the best of these resembled a rather weatherworn frog.

The City itself is a spectacular view with a huge bastioned wall surrounding the old town inside. There are 99 Bastions and it sits above new Jaisalmer like a behemoth, its mighty edifice towering over the dimunitive dwellings below.

The people here a very friendly and there are far fewer touts except initially off the train, where rickshaws compete for your business... It is possible to spend a day wandering the Old Town and markets, looking at a range of handicraft wears. There are a range of art shops, habidasheries and blacksmiths who bash away making tools in the heat of the day near red hot coal fires under nothing more than a holed cloth cover on wooden poles. As they work boys and women fan the flames with belows, a scene straight out of medieval Britain.

The markets are a buzzing hive of activity with haggling the name of the game. I met 2 Spanish lads while i was here and together we found a great deal on a headscraf for tyhe desert trek - Initially the price was goig to be 1200r for 3 scarfs... However after haggling for 10 mins this came down to 750r for 3 Scarfs. So remember if your in the market aim low and leave some room to move upwards as the traders will aim high and have room to come down :)

Jaisalmer is hot, hot and dry at the moment with temperatures to uncomfortable to be out long around midday - i walked 15 mins to the hotel and sweated so much that it looked like i had taken a shower in my t-shirt!!

The food here is excellent and 1/3 of the price of Delhi - A full meal, drink and coffee will set you back 300r (about $6) at the best restaurant in town :) cheaper eateries will cost around 80r ($2)...

Have spent one evening on a Camel Safari - a first for me :) We were taken out into the desert 40km and then dropped off with some Camel owners... They then organised our rides. The two spanish guys went off for a night under blankets while i had opted to return to the hotel after sunset - therefore i was introduced to my guide and camel owner Sakeem with his camel azaar. He spoke good English and asked many questions along the trip. I however, was somewhat distracted by the need to stay perched on my camel, holding on with my thighs while taking photos with one free hand. I find it hard to explain how a camel moves, but it jolts and bumps its way along randomly and the faster it goes the more it jolts and bumps until your bum and thighs plead for mercy... (when i returned from my 2 hour trek on a camel i could not sit down except on comfy furniture for a day, even now it is a little sore!)...

I found out later that the camel owner was only 8 yrs old and that he was in school learning English and Maths. He asked for a pen as a tip so he gained one of my brothers pens for being an excellent host.

The Hotel i stayed at was superb for $15 a night and the area is worth coming to for the fantastic views, friendly atmosphere and camel safaris.

The streets of Jaisalmer are filled with shops and people moving around. However, this does not stop motorcycles from buzzing around beeping their horns or cows from ignoring all requests to move and sitting/standing or slowly looping while chewing the cud. The open sewers here run with a milky film of i presume soap but the smell is not bad as there is a constant smell or incense/cooking and traffic fumes... I was surprised to see however that directly above the open sewers that there were open shop fronts selling such items as wonderfully decorated and iced cakes. They looked sooo tempting - but the sewers put me off...

Overall Jaisalmer is a wonderful place to come for a visit, however, you will still find litter in the street as cows, dogs, pigs and goats roam around you.

After two days in Jaisalmer it is time to say goodbye and head for Jodhpur on the overnight train leaving at 11.15pm...