A quick stop in Varanasi

On my first day in Varanasi I am informed by the taxi driver that a road has been blocked off due to a visit from the Indian prime minister today - there is a heavy police presence and the streets are crowded. As we approach the old city towards the Ghats the streets become progressively narrow until we reach a maze of allies that are only accessible by motorcycle or foot - so on foot it is. We wind are way through narrow streets, where large groups are heading towards the holy river Ganges and her bathing Ghats, while traders call out their wears to passing worshippers and tourists alike. Cows and stray dogs are everywhere with cows standing chewing the cud or browsing through trash for anything edible while dogs just lie on their sides in the heat waiting for the cool of evening to start their prowls - the dogs here are some of the most mangy I have seen with bitten ears and hair missing in patches.

At last the Ganges comes into view down a very dark and narrow passageway, this first glimpse of the waters is one of brown fast flowing water with the occasional piece of debris passing being danced in the strong eddy currents… The river is very high and it is impossible to walk along the Ghats - The lowest floors of many of the riverside buildings are in fact underwater!

The hotel looms into view at the top of the Man Mandir Ghat where it is raised like a cramped palace on marble steps surrounded by potted plants and fronted by a tree. It is a surprise and relief to find such a haven amongst the narrow alleys - The interior is cool and has marble floors and rooftop restaurant with magnificent views of the surrounding city, flooded Ghats and river Ganges. Breakfast on the terrace is a panoramic affair :)

After two days on trains my first priority is a shower :)

Lunch is a humble affair at the Brown Bread Bakery - This is a lovely little boutique eatery with friendly ambience and shoeless cushioned seating space on the first floor (It is customary for all guests to remove their shoes before heading to the first floor - Mt boots were the only pair amongst a sea of slip of sandals!!). The vegetable chow mien was fantastic value at 65r (90p) but I was surprised to see a mouse run across the floor when a fellow traveller felt something move under her and lifted a cushion, causing a raised eyebrow or two accompanied with smiles from diners but no reaction from staff! The restaurant was recognised in the Lonely Planet as a good place to eat and I fully agree as it continues to actively support several local programs and is due to open another shop in the city soon.

Then off to complete a turn on the river - walking to the Dasaswamedh Ghats I found a group of boatmen ready to take out a craft in exchange for 800r (Remember to barter as the initial rate was 1500r!!). Soon I had a boat and a crew of 5 men to take me to the sites along the river, not sure what the extra crew were there for but they were all keen to help and probably enjoyed the trip away from the Ghats (there were no other western tourists here today so trade was slow) Getting the boat out was the first obstacle as it was moored along with other boats and needed to be freed from the mass of ropes, only to find it was out of oil!! So another transfer across several boats to one that had enough oil for the trip :) Boarding the vessel required some dexterity as the walk across the moving decks…

My guide, a local boatman and silk trader gave me a running commentary of each of the Ghats and explained there significance while indicating the burning bodies being cremated at the burning Ghats… A sobering experience to watch the site of families and friends paying to have their loved ones cremated at the riverside on wood weighed on giant scales then formed into funeral pyres (The wood is stacked in vast piles near to the Ghats in preparation for mourners and different wood has a different price - Sandalwood is apparently best but also the most expensive at 750r per kilo). The ride takes and hour before returning me to the Ghats where I show off my athleticism by nimbly clambering over boats to return to dry land… The River was high and there is no way to walk along the Ghats so you are forced to walk the narrow lanes and brave the constant traders calls… I fail to resist and end up with the purchase of a silk cloth from a store where I sat on a mattress and was shown over 20 silk products and pashmena scarf’s. While we were haggling a mouse ran over the mattress - The second mouse in as many buildings and they do not seem to mind people 0_0

Finally the hotel itself has a lovely restaurant which supplies lovely cashew nut curries and Banana Lassis - The staff are amused to see me attempt to drink mine through a straw - as it is as thick as a yoghurt with lumps of banana!! But hey I manage it and we all have a laugh in the process :)

Overall Varanasi is a busy, vibrant hub of humanity with people going about their daily lives amongst the hordes of visitors on their way to worship, tour, give puja or send off relatives through cremation. The sites and smells of this place are unique with incense mixing with the smells of wood smoke, street food being prepared, waste rotting in the streets and open drains. But the main draw of this city remains the Ganges river and its Ghats.

I am glad that I came for the experience but would not want to stay here more than a couple of days.