Two days in Jodhpur

I am not sure what I was expecting after my night train in 3A class to Jodhpur… But what I received was the customary welcome of rick shaw drivers touting for business and demonstrating that their rick shaw would surely take you to your destination with the utmost haste, accuracy and as cheap as you liked. After some negotiation and having moved at least 20 meters from the station entrance I was found by a tea stand by a tuk-tuk owner who said he knew my hotel and would take me there for 40r - well in the early morning darkness lit only by the street lights and buzzing traffic I accepted and we tootled off at a leisurely pace towards the destination which turned out to be a little way outside the city centre and in a peaceful neighbourhood with walled gardens. On arrival he expressed how nice the hotel was and that it must be expensive… The it was a matter of heading in through the gated entrance.

On opening the gate and entering I found a wonderful ‘Alice in wonderland’ garden with fountains, gravel walkways, paved areas, lovebird seats, iron seating along a restaurant verander and swimming pool… but no people… So I phoned the reception which turned out to be 5 meters away and as the night watch answered it we had an amusing exchange as we could hear each other without the need for the phone! As I was soooo early it was arranged for me to rest by the pool where there was toilets and sink to freshen up… I also found that there was mosquitoes at dawn who immediately detected my heat signature and proceeded to investigate every part of my scarf defences J It only failed once, but it led to an itchy bite…

Dawn broke over the pool as I rested.

Breakfast saved me from the insects with a wonderful array of continental and fruit. Lovely restaurant and staff are to be commended as in my two nights here I have eaten some amazingly prepared meals with a rich flavour prepared to my individual taste and the Thali was refillable.

The sites and sounds of Jodhpur are similar to all other cities in India - There is the constant noise of people and traffic going about their daily lives in streets that still have open sewers and rubbish lying discarded over large areas. The smell is something that you become accustomed to as it is a blend of open sewers, rubbish, cooking, incense and fresh produce… A bizar mix… However life goes on and the market is alive with many locals buying groceries and market goods while tourists like me mill around within the mayhem making sense of the travellers bible “Lonely Planet” guide to India, which enables us to find the best places to eat, drink, shop and stay. However, travellers be warned that some things change and can change quickly…

The Lonely Planet was right about the Omelette shop though as it still stands on the entrance to the market square selling spicy omelettes or boiled eggs - the owner looked in his 50’s with red hair and an enthusiastic, enticing smile while beside him stood and immense pile of egg trays… He clearly expected brisk business and he seemed to be getting it…

On the tourist route there were some wonderful sites easily reached via auto-rickshaw (tuk-tuk as they are called here) and incude:

Umaid Bhawan Palace which is an outstanding piece of architecture lived in by the maharajahs and there servants. It remains and elegant, yet powerful symbol standing opposite the fort on a hillside overlooking the airfield and army bases. The internal architecture is filled with details which catch the eye and crave for your attention against the heirlooms of the past patiently waiting behind there walls of glass - so next time your in a museum/palace etc, take a look at the ceilings, walls as these can be as interesting as the displays themselves. Below it the once barren hillside is sprouting with a new crop of upmarket housing each with balcony, walled garden and AC. They are for the growing number of wealthy elite who can afford the high property prices and are able to commute to work. They all looked impressive with for/palace views and many were already lived in.

The Jaswant Thada Temple (Stop 2) was also a elegant construction of latticed stonework and towers set beside a clear lake atop a hill adjacent to the fort. It is a place high above the din of the blue city, where it is possible to rest, meditate and contemplate life and the wonderful views. As you do there will be music to entertain (and earn money) from musicians positioned to make the most of the tourists. I stop and talk with them a while as other tourists just bristle on there way - The couple who team up and play a musical instrument which I have forgotten the name of and sing are keen musicians demonstrating the potential of the wonderful instrument made from metal, bamboo, goats horn and fibre. It had a wealth of sounds including the ability to imitate a violin very well - I was honoured enough to be able to take park in playing a quick note or two. I wished the couple well and declined to by and instrument at 2500r as I could not possibly carry it around on my world trip… although… no I didn’t… Rest assured all ears are safe from the probable cacophony that I would have produced.

The Mehrangarh fort is a might symbol of power over Jodhpur and the surroundings, it towers over you with huge bastions, vertical walls and huge gates set along narrow cobbled roads. It is a steep climb to get to the gate and the walk to the fort proper is quite a slog along the defensive entrance. Turns are 900 or more to avoid run ups to each gatehouse and some of the gates have huge spikes in them above head height (can you guess why - well I will tell you at the end)…

On entering the forts inner yards you are met with the towering wall on one side and the elegant art of top craftsmen on the inside. The fort is a honeycomb of rooms and many of the walls have stone screens so ornate as to require further investigation (they turn out to be flowers), they allow for people to look out while people on the outside cannot look in…

The tour takes you through the major rooms of the palace and the elevated walkways on the outside of the building well above the battlements were rows of captured cannons sit idly pointing towards the surrounding city. Symbols of power and authority some of which date only as far back as WW1.

The rooms of the fort are a wonderful assortment with the thrown room filled with light and colours from meticulously crafted coloured glass windows, to entertainment rooms filled with vibrant decoration with no expense spared (some western influence is noted in one chamber with glittering Christmas balls attached to the ceiling in a range of rainbow colours), to the pearl meeting room with its hidden listening holes and finally the heavily protected women’s quarters with their lack of privacy from each other but separate from the rest of the fort in beautiful surroundings of ornately carved wood and stonework. It has been one of the highlights of the trip so far to see such majestic places filled with history and outstanding craftsman ship. Not to mention the breathtaking views from the top. Be prepared to look out on a city that throws off its polluted and congested mantle, for up here, from the forts battlements it is possible to see “The Blue City” basking in the warmth of the sun.

Jodhpur
Answer to why are there spikes above head height on the gates - The spikes are there to deter elephants from charging/battering/butting the gates even when goaded by their riders…