Tuesday, 8 February 2011

Nagasaki - The atomic nightmare

Nagasaki has the unenviable ‘fame’ of being the site of the second use of atomic power in Anger - therefore it was, I felt, important to visit the historical sites associated with this event in order to try and understand the implications of this catastrophic act.
Visiting the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park it is remarkable to see the way in which such a destructive act has led to a real call for disarmament and peace from many nations and the world community as a whole, led at times by Japan. The Museum itself is designed so that you enter from the basement level and work your way back up through the exhibits (Entry 300Y). Each exhibit is an experience and I defy anyone to come here and not be effected by the stories and artefacts on display, they paint a vivid picture of the effects of nuclear weapons and grant a chilling account of how many weapons are in existence today and how many nuclear tests have been undertaken since their invention (OVER 2000!! 0_0).
The displays that stood out the most for me where the remains of the Cathedral, blackened and blasted by heat and shock waves the remains are found in the park and on its original site - however, elements of the cathedral have been copied and set up in the museum with real remnants such as a carved angels face decoration in stone taken from the ruins. Also within the museum; a broken clock, situated at the entrance shows the time of the nuclear attack, its hands frozen in place at 11.02, a chilling moment in history, its housing shattered and twisted), clothing worn by people killed and maimed by the blast/heat wave, which is torn and burnt even from a distance of over 3.5km!! (A monks robe stood out as it Iwas discoloured and tattered from the blast at 3.4km distant), melted glass bottles and finally twisted metal warped by the heat. All in all the experience of walking through artefacts from this day of locally apocalyptic destruction is haunting… The atmosphere within the exhibition halls is sombre, with the ticking of a clock as you enter the only sound, even though the museum was busy no one said anything, just filed through with looks of sorrow and in some cases openly weeping. Be warned that this is an emotional experience with harrowing images/video…
At the end of the museum is the peace hall where people have made lines of interconnected origami cranes, some of them thousands in length. They are a beautiful site in their multi-coloured glory and are symbols for peace in our time and hope for future generations. Let us hope that these weapons never have to be used again as the horrors that they can release are beyond description and there effects travel through the generations never to be forgotten.

The peace park is an area of tranquillity within the city, it is well signposted up two flights of stairs from the main road - the park has a number of sculptures from the global community dedicated to peace, but at its heart lies a fountain and iconic statue of a man pointing up to the sky and away into the distance.

The site of the blast, epicentre, ground zero is marked by a simple unadorned black monolith and small park, this is an area for prayer and a number of small shrines surround the park. There are also two lanterns here (the only things to survive at one of the nearby temples after the fires destroyed the wooden structures). A large dark rock sculpture of a women holding a child in her arms with a dress adorned with flowers stands at the edge of the park while at the other side stands one section of wall relocated here from Nagasaki’s Cathedral. Finally, a small area of exposed excavation reveals the aftermath of the blast at ground zero (It is to the north of the park down a flight of steps and is covered by thick glass - yet even here there is a small green shoot spouting! Perhaps a sign of a hopeful future).

Nagasaki today is a thriving city - rebuilt as a beacon of hope for the future - a symbol of peace, co-operation and disarmament. However, there is more to see here than just the atomic related history, take time to explore the city and its sites and you to will fall for its charms. Explore its narrow shopping streets, ride the trams, eat out at the small family restaurants, stroll around the grounds of its quiet temples, and marvel at its fabulous views and if you are here during the lantern festival enjoy the show :)

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