Sakurajima hike

Day two in Kagoshima leads me back to the harbour early to take the ferry to Sakurajima (I am the only western tourist on board and everyone else is on a tour or in a car!! One dear old lady sits down next to me and gives me a surgical mask for the ash which her group gains some amusement from as I place it over the beard :)) - I decide to hike to the observation platform just 6km up hill from the harbour… It is a long 6km and all up hill along a paved roadway (The surgical mask lasts about 2km before it becomes far to wet to wear). At several points on route views come into site but for the most part it is road walking with trees flanking both sides. However, once you reach the observation point it is possible to have a wonderful view of the three peaks which make up the volcano (Mnt Ondake 1117m, Mnt Nakadake 1060m and Mnt Minamidake 1040m). The volcano is active and has been erupting sporadically since my arrival and today is no different although visibility is worse due to the high level of dust and enclosing cloud… After 1½ hours of climbing I arrive at the observation platform just in time for the rain to arrive!! Yep - and the only way back down is by foot 0_0 guess I should have planned better!! Oh well, time for a cup noodle and canned coffee (280Y cheap meal) while I wait for the rain to relent…
I did gain some magnificent views of the three peaks on route to the observation deck and once again this confirms the shear power and majesty of this enormous volcano looming over the small fishing port at its base. The cragged peaks stretch up towards the sky with scars visible from previous eruptions and lave flows but all to soon the clouds roll in fully and they are obscured from view. Oh well - make sure that if you want to hike that you plan ahead and check the weather…

The hike back down along the scenic road is 10km!! So by the end of the complete route I have covered 17km and 10km of this in persistent and at times heavy rain. The only way in which I could have been wetter was if I had fallen into the sea!! Even my ‘Waterproof Jacket’ did not keep it all out… Anyway - the route back would certainly have been very scenic if it was a clear day, however visibility was down to 200m and the peaks became invisible to me but I did get to hike over a lava field and saw how it was being colonised by new species. Fab J and I did not see another soul all day on foot until I reached the waterfront lava field path were 4 workers were laying fresh tarmac, only 3 vehicles passed me and that was it… the tranquillity of the long distance walker ;) Getting back on the ferry was amusing as the ‘drowned rat’ look got quite some attention as I stood dripping in the cabin! The looks continued until I had made I back to the hostel on the tram where a well deserved warm shower awaited…
On a clear day I would certainly recommend a walk/hike to the observation point if you are reasonably fit - if your super fit then try cycling (but be aware that the incline is steep!!). Kagoshima has been a wonderful place to stay although the Little Asia Hostel has had its ups and downs (up side - staff are great, free internet, hot showers and free laundry for 1500Y a night, downside - Some long term dormers and their habits).