Arrival in Xian

Arriving in Xian it is a quick 1hr bus journey to get to the city centre. The route takes us past many areas of industry and housing development and it seems to be occurring at a frantic pace - However, the biggest difference that I notice on route is the sun. It is obscured here, in Beijing there were clear skies but here there is a constant mist/smog which makes the sun a blurry orange ball. We pass many chimneys (which reminded me of the Whitlesey Brick Pits) but are associated to power stations and this does not end on entering the city as we pass the ancient walls there is a large chimney on each side hidden a little by the newly built high rise buildings.
Xian is clearly rapidly modernising with consumerism a new driving force - Times Square sits outside the southern gate and has elitist shops surrounding it like GUCCI, Monte Blanc etc… The modern tower blocks stand in stark contrast to the three level flats off the old city. Entering through the Southern Gate we see that the main streets continue to be fronted by consumerism at its most basic (Huge stores and luxury goods secure the best locations while smaller stores are found along side streets or in the frankly huge shopping mall at the bell tower). Along the main streets there are also MASSIVE flat screen TV style bill boards continuously advertising goods or messages. Walking along these streets it is clear that the people frequenting the shops are the newly enriched Chinese and occasional western tourist. I make full use of the Starbucks at the Bell Tower to feed my caffeine addiction and meet several other tourists resting here, a great opportunity to compare notes :)
If you just scratch beneath this veneer you quickly find the old town proper with its Muslim Quarter with little stores and street vendors (Who venture onto the main streets in the evening to sell their delicacies - but be aware that two of the people in my dorm who ait from them became ill). The narrow lanes house some gems of old architecture and the narrow streets are alive with people going about their daily lives - so as you walk you are constantly aware of the need to avoid motorcyclists, scooters, cyclists and other pedestrians!!