Napier is the worlds most important Art-Deco town/city… Or so it is marketed and they do have a point. Why? Because in 1931 Napier was hit by an earthquake measuring 7.9 on the Richter scale leading to the whole city centre being all but destroyed… Seeing the destruction in images while on a tour I could draw similarities to this event and the one in Christchurch, which gives hope in the longer term…
Napier rose like a phoenix from the flames thanks to the hard work and dedication of the depression era people of New Zealand and the sailors of the Victoria. The town was almost completely rebuilt within a year using the art-deco style (in effect this means that the buildings are ‘deco’rated with designs indicating the modern world (of the 1930’s) including speed lines, zig-zags, sunbursts and Ziggurats… The whole city centre remains a art-deco lovers dream and every February there is a festival to celebrate the style with vintage cars and costumes - quite a sight I can imagine ;)
I took the art-deco tour while I was here ($16). The tour takes you around the city centre led by a knowledgeable guide who indicates all the different designs and dates of buildings - you even get to go in and take photos of several including the bank!! Napier is like a living museum of art-deco architecture - a beautifully preserved city with a charm that I am sure will endure the ages, win you over and have you spending more time here than you may have planned :)
City Facts of reconstruction post 1931: All power and water pipes placed underground, street signs imbedded into sidewalks… until too many drivers stated that they could not see them!! (the signs were only later placed on posts) streets were widened to cater for motorcars… And now central ones have been narrowed again 0_0 to reduce traffic!!
The city rests on the coast - However, the beach is pebbly and black/grey in nature so not really a swimmers or sun bathers paradise!! Better for a walk along the promenade to the spa or cafés… When Napier was established it was on a bluff and around the bluffs base as the rest of the land was flooded by a lagoon and swamp land - all this changed in 1931 as the earthquake rose the land 2m, this was high enough to drain the land and open a large area for farmland ;) (said to be the silver lining if there can be in disasters). Today the city is quiet and charming and if you give it a chance and explore you can find hidden treasures like the churches, fountains and Tiffin Park (but be aware that there are no views of the city from here… For this you must climb ‘Sea view Terrace’ to the top of the bluff - all 204 steps and then climb a little further along narrow housing streets to the observation point - just be aware that none of these are marked clearly… Just follow your nose until you find steps up the bluff as I did :) The views are worth the effort (you can even see the industrial sector about 2km south!! As well as ‘Tin Town’ where businesses relocated after the quake and many remained…
Top Tip if staying in Napier - head for the ‘RSA’ restaurant on Vautier Street - a sign outside states “visitors are welcome”. You will be provided with an all you can eat buffet style 2 course lunch ($15) or all you can eat 3 course Carvery dinner ($25)… I sampled both and I can honestly state that the food is plentiful, good value and well prepared ;) enjoy.
Overall a city that I have enjoyed a couple of days in, relaxing and taking in the sites while completing short walks. Next stop Taupe ;)
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