Friday 19 November 2010

Onwards to Mirissa and the South coast

After just a day in Ella it was time to move on again for my last journey with ‘Tissa’ my exceptional driver and guide. The route took us along the A2 highway which has some wonderful views across the valley opening up into the lowlands as well as a number of waterfalls all surrounded by a happy band of hawkers selling everything from coconuts to pieces of rock and of course the obligatory post card sets!! The road itself begins as a winding lane covered at times with the debris from rock falls and mud slides - at several points along our route we had to negotiate fallen rocks, trees and earth on the road from recent falls… It is clearly a dangerous road to drive along when it is raining within the wet season as these rocks could easily squash a car!
The road soon opens up onto a flat plain and the traffic builds as we head towards the coast - New development here has meant that the road is becoming a dual-carriageway to link a new international port and airport to Colombo. Huge investment is being pumped into this area due to tourism and trade. However, the road workers still use tree branches pulled from the side of the road to mark work areas instead of traffic cones!! A new wind farm is also in evidence although not working as we passed and there are plans for new solar power schemes - Sri Lanka is looking towards a sustainable future… Bizarrely enough while we were driving a story on the radio was stating just how sustainable Sri Lanka was in comparison to Europe and the USA with regards to air pollution. Sorry little Geography creeping in…
We drive past areas affected by the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami and this is a sobering scene as large areas of land were inundated by the sea washing away homes, livelihoods and leading to the deaths thousands of people - we passed one market place (now just an open area) where 500 people died. A memorial now stands on the spot as a stark reminder to the unpredictable power of nature. At points along this stretch of coast are reminders of the Tsunami - ripped up concrete posts, debris from destroyed coastal works and buildings - However - there has been significant recovery. The coastal lowlands of the south are flowering into a new dawn thanks to the hard work and investment of the Sri Lankan government, its people and foreign aid - New homes have been built, businesses have returned and infrastructure has been re-established.

Mirissa turns out to be an Idyllic coastal retreat with pristine golden sand covering a small crescent shaped bay, the waves roll in as breakers, which today are dotted with surfers - the waves here are large and have a strong swash and backwash - As you walk through the surf you can feel the sand being drawn from under your feet!! The beach is steep and in places there are rocks and coral. The sea itself is azure blue but towards the beach becomes brown with churning sand as the waves crash in - If you go for a dip here expect to come out covered in a fine layer of sand!!
Surfers congregate at the western end of the beach where there are the biggest waves and they have there own surf shack serving good food, beer and has an area to wax boards or for the beginner the chance to hire a body board ;) I spent a few hours just watching the surfers, listening to the waves roll in under the shack while admiring the sunset :)
All in all a little piece of paradise and the western tourists clearly know this as there are more here than anywhere else I have been sunbathing, relaxing in the bars or hitting the waves (with or without a board).
As Mirissa is so popular with tourists the beachfront has developed with hotels claiming plots, which now encompass most of the beachfront (A rapid recovery from the Tsunami) - each one has a wall and gate to the rear for the privacy of tourists and all serve food/drinks (Well all except my one!! As when I arrived they were still getting ready for the season at the end of the month so paint pots were out and the rooms were being re-furbished) Still my room is spacious and you cannot complain about the location or stunning views - We have hammocks set between trees overlooking the western end of the beach with a perfect view of the tireless efforts of the surfers to catch the ideal wave.
Well there is little to do here except surf (if able), swim or relax. So time to kick back, put on the shades and relax for a few days…

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