Once again I set off south along the coastal trail, heading for my destination of half moon bay… As I pass the road closed sign at the distillery it is clear that the action of the sea is dramatically shaping this coastline and effecting the lives of the residents. The rocks here are unconsolidated materials left over from glacial melt waters or river deposits and this means that they are easily washed away with the dramatic force of the Pacific Ocean waves and their long fetch… I pass by many homes which have been abandoned to the see and some that have nothing remaining except there concrete foundation. Pipes remain sticking out from the cliff faces as underground plumbing is rarely if ever removed.
The next two miles of coastal trail have wonderful views over tidal pools, rocks and beaches far below the edge of the cliff I am walking along… At least a 50’ below me! The weather is overcast and the waves are crashing rollers, but the tide is still low so there is still the opportunity to climb (yep, climb) down to the beach and explore some of the rock formation and tidal pools just off shore. The cliffs here are very steep and slippery… so if you climb down be careful :)
Ross’s cove soon leads to Pillar Point with its air force tracking station (A colossal white dome) which draws the eye from miles around. However, there is little else here and for a hiker it is a little isolated from other trails… As I soon found out… In order to get further along the coast there is a need to walk through ‘Princeton’ - a small industrial area with huge warehouses and barbed wire encrusted fences (Hardly sightly or enjoyable).
When you clear Princeton there is a small smattering of fish and chip style restaurants and a small green leading across to El Grenada and its harbour - today being serenaded by the haunting sound of the fog horn blowing every few seconds… Lots of yachts here for the interested… Beyond El Grenada is half moon bay beach - an enormous stretch of sand with crashing ‘rip tide’ waves (and no life guards!) but this makes it the ideal playground for the adventurous surfer and so the waves are dotted with them bobbing over smaller crests and waiting for the perfect run ;) Few people are enjoying the beach itself as it is a little windy today but there are areas for camping and picnicking (with the ever present sea gulls) one even has a ‘Punch and Judy’ style theatre both :)
There is a small stream to cross as you continue south… hm… As I approached it there were two ladies wondering how to get around this obstacle and stating that it was a long way back to the inland track… So I decide to attempt jumping the stream as it only looks perhaps 6’ across… Well suffice to say I may have mis-judged the distance involved, the depth of the sand or the depth of the stream as just short of the other side… SPLASH DOWN 0_0’’ I land with both feet in the water creating a cascade which any belly flop diver could have been proud of - I was soaked from the waste down with the rest of me damp from spray!! The two ladies of the bank smiled and decided to head back for the trail while I tramped off picking up sand on my soaked trousers. Doh!
It is possible to follow the trail further south and I would recommend this as it will take you along some wonderful coastal scenery including a landscape ravaged by erosion and dotted with trees shaped by the wind. Finally though you will end up at the end of the trail just beyond the 5* hotel and its prized golf course… At which point it is time to walk back to highway one and get the bus back to Montara. After all it has been a 5½ hour hike to get here and its is 4.30pm!! The bus costs just $2 for wherever you get off and runs all week. A good day with lots of great views and a refreshing cool wind - but I did need to launder my trousers/jumper on returning due to the smell of stagnant water stains!!
Saturday, 21 May 2011
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